Not sure of your numbers your quoting but, get on swfa.com for rings and scope bases.
They may have those number matched, or something better in inventory. Screws will
come with the bases.
Hi guys, new here first post. I bought an Axis 2 XP chambered in 243 back in the spring, letter P in the serial number. Couldn’t hit the broad side of a barn, loose bases, crooked scope etc. I put a Trophy XLT scope on it, but I don’t like the way it sits, it’s not comfortable. I want to put a one piece Weaver rail in place of the two-piece factory bases, but I’m coming up with two part numbers. 48347 is pre-2021, 48400 is post-2021. Naturally I assume 48400 is what I need, but I read some screws were the wrong size, and there wasn’t any concrete evidence on which one I need. I emailed Savage Arms to try and pinpoint the manufacture date to be sure but haven’t heard back. I also can’t seem to find a 48400 rail locally, so I’ll have to order online; if I do that I want to be sure I get it right. Does anybody know for sure? It must be 48400, but I’d just like to be 100% certain
Not sure of your numbers your quoting but, get on swfa.com for rings and scope bases.
They may have those number matched, or something better in inventory. Screws will
come with the bases.
Keeping my bad Karma intact since 1952
Your Axis uses 8-40 screws. The scope base you are referring to with PN# 48400 is the Weaver rail. https://www.amazon.com/WEAVER-1-Piec...s%2C93&sr=8-12
Any rail for the Axis using 8-40 screws will work. I prefer a full Picatinny rail made of 7075 Aluminum like this one.
https://www.amazon.com/Talley-Savage...199234&sr=8-37
Thank you both for the quick replies and the links. I also couldn’t find the difference between 48347 and 48400, I thought I read one was 20 moa? I’ll poke around some more, but I’m thinking I should be safe with 48400, iirc it says 8-40 on the description.. I’ve got a set of Weaver quad lock rings too, a little better than what the gun originally came with.
I called Weaver, held for awhile n opted to use the call back option. Within an hour or so I had a very pleasant guy call me back (excellent customer service imo, or at least with this inquiry) and gave me all the info I needed. 48347 is for the older ones that have smaller screws (6-xx) and the 48400 is for after 06/2021 with larger (8-40) screws. I did not find anywhere online that the screws were smaller for the older one, hence a little confusion. He also said that 99610 was the picatinny for the current model Axis with 8-40 screws
Yes, it’s the screws. I’m sorry, I thought I relayed that. I should have been more.
No no Dave, you gave me all the info I needed, I just read it too fast n didn’t really put it all together lol. I was getting the 48400 rail anyway, I just called Weaver to find out what was different about the two. It’s been a bit of a roller coaster with this rifle, I assumed it would fit in like the others but not yet anyways. Looking very forward to getting this all sorted out and solving my coyote problem. Thanks again!
Quick question on a related note.
I have an Axis 2 stainless XP in 223 (love this rifle). I upgraded it a tad over the years with a wood stock and switched to a one piece rail.
Recently just purchased a bare bones Axis 2 in 30-06 (still waiting for it to ship). From my understanding my original two piece rail mounts from my .223 should bolt right up to this new rifle. Will likley get a one rail for it as well eventually but for now just want to get a scope mounted to try rifle and check its accuracy before I drop any $$$ on it. Am I correct in this assumption?
That is always a good plan. Patience is a virtue, afterall.
I'd still be using the two piece if any of my scope bodies were long enough. I don't really like the extended scope rings so a rail was my only realistic option.
Gotchya! Just wondering.. have you checked if you can turn the scope rails 180 degrees each? Or possible swapping the front and rear rails? If the slots are set to the front, doing so may give you just enough back travel without hitting the bell.
I have trimmed the front base back to gain Bell clearance on one rifle / scope combination to keep the scope rings low.
Messes with OCD but got it shooting
.223 Rem AI, .22-250 AI, .220 Swift AI .243 Win AI, .6mm Rem AI, .257 Rob AI, .25-06 AI, 6.5x300wsm .30-06 AI, .270 STW, 7mm STW, 28 nosler, .416 Taylor
Even with the rail I had to trim it. I wanted lower rings to 'match' the comb of the stock. The med size bell (42mm) was too big with the scope set back where I needed it. I trimmed off one full slot and angle ground the next one.
Jeeze I didn’t even think of that, thanks! I left them the way they were and just put my rings and scope on. I bet you’re right, I could flip them 180 and move my rings in. I’ve got a line on a one piece rail, but when I take everything apart I’ll look and see how they fit up.
When I took the original scope off, the rear base just about fell off it was so loose. I can’t believe I didn’t think of flipping it around lol
18 to 20 inch pounds is the general torque spec for 8-40 screws eh, regardless of one piece or two piece bases?
Gotcha, thank you Dave! I picked up one of those Wheeler torque wrenches so I don’t overtighten anything. Well worth the money, although I do wish I bought it a few years ago when they were cheaper. It will be a little while before I get that one piece rail, but I will update on how everything goes.
I’m assuming that one piece rail will be notched out or cut back a little on the right/chamber side, as it only goes on one way? I’m sure it comes with instructions so I don’t put it on backwards lol
Many are not notched. They do narrow your access to the magazine area but do not impact ejection.
And, yes, if you have a 20MOA rail you can put it on backwards.
Wish you’d have come here first. The Wheeler torque driver is accurate, but it’s not absolute to have that one specific. I have a Torque driver that cost half the price of the Wheeler, and is 10-70in.lbs. It’s tested against my Snap-On In.Lb. Torque wrench & is accurate. Even at that, these don’t need to be NASA level accurate! A driver within a couple inch pounds accuracy is fine.
When doing the rail, you won’t get instructions. But it is straight forward. The rails typically can be installed either way. Anything you don’t understand just come ask here first.
For the amount of “gunsmithing” I do, I’m not worthy of that Wheeler torque wrench lol. I planned to use my 1/4” drive torque wrench, but it doesn’t go low enough ironically. This is my first new rifle, and even though I mounted scopes before I was worried I was going to strip something or do damage; even though I never have in the past. Between that torque wrench and the Real Avid scope levelling kit, I went over budget with stuff I really didn’t need. What is that saying about a fool and his money
I’ll have a look and make sure it’s not 20moa, I don’t think it is. Every pic online it looks symmetrical too, so it shouldn’t be hard to mount up; whenever it gets here. Thanks for all the info, it is greatly appreciated!
Bookmarks