There’s that echo again, LOL!
J/K
KMW did bring up a good point of sticking with the 22-250. You said you wanted to use as much as you could. Keeping the factory barrel and going from there wouldn’t be a bad option. 22-250 will compete in 300yds with its eyes closed! And it can be competitive at 600. So I guess to think on. Good point out KMW.
From the little bit of research I was able to quickly do last night, I didn't find any reviews on the 22-250 model but it appears that rifle came with a heavy Varmint barrel with a 5R Rifling and the barrel length is either 24" or 26". Couldn't find what twist rate they used but if they actually did use a 5R Rifling then I would guess they also used a faster that 12 twist. Which will allow you to use 69gr or heavier bullets depending on the twist.Originally Posted by Dave Hoback
Now if BFlynn still insists on changing barrels I may be interested in relieving him of that old one!
I am a 7 mm guy also. The 284 is a mean cartridge. If you gun isn't 15 pounds you might like the 7-08 better. Very found of that cartridge.
The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.
I don't know your action size, 3006 size I just did a 7mmX57 AI, OMG!
My boy JUST finished a 358 Norma again OMG...
I had a 7mm-08 many years ago (1980's). Great cartridge and I could make all my brass from 7.62x51 surplus. Just run the larger neck case through a FL size die. Mine shot really well with factory or reloads. The .284 is a step up in speed but is another one of those inherently good cartridges. Now days I don't like recoil as much so I have a 6BR. Really a nice 600yd cartridge. I do have a .308 but it is my cast bullet gun.
We’ve crossed into that point when everyone will just give their favorite choice, not the best option for the OP. We don’t even know if he’s planning on reloading? He mentioned his brother reloads, but it sounds like he will be relying primarily on Factory ammunition. To which I again say the 6.5 Creedmoor is hands down, the best option. And that’s coming from someone who doesn’t even like the 6.5CM! But I admit it’s the winner when it comes to a target capable cartridge for those who don’t reload and must use factory ammunition. Unless you reload, 7mm-08 won’t do you any good. All the factory stuff is hunting ammo, not precision target ammo. And forget anything 6mm BR related. That’s purely reloader cartridge territory.
But for 300 and 600yd the 7mm-08, 6mmCM, .243, and even .308 are also good choices (yes, there is some premium match available for 7mm-08). Heck, even a lowly .223 can do ok at 600 with the factory 77gn loads.
If not reloading it all depends on what you can find on the shelf....and then order a ton of it :)
He has the model 10T. It’s a Short Action.
Those are both interesting ideas. I'll let you know, what I decide either way.
BFlynn, as stated, I have been competing with a Savage in 223Rem for 2 seasons already and getting ready for a 3rd. We have 20 members in this league and I am the only one shooting a 22. Majority are shooting some form of 6mm, 1 30BR, 1 7mm08, I believe 3 308, a couple 6.5CM.. I shoot the 223 with a 69gr bullet and right now experimenting with a 60gr VMAX. I've been able to hold my own against the avg. shooters while there is a large gap between the top shooters.
I honestly feel the hold up for me has been the use of the wrong glass. What works for PRC shooting doesn't do well for what we are shooting. Personally I would not hesitate to shoot a 22-250 in this league. Which again my goal was to be shooting this Savage with a Shilen barrel chambered in 6ARC.. The ARC will compete with the 6mmBR Norma when run as a bolt rifle with the actual difference between the two when loaded with the same bullets and powder being a reduction in speed with the ARC of only about 50FPS.
So I do not know what the cost difference is between the 6ARC and the 6.5Creedmore in factory loads or even the factory 22-250.
Something else to think about. The 22-250 uses the same bolt head as the 6mmBR and I believe the same for the 6.5CM. The ARC uses the same bolt head as the 6.5Grendal.
Squirrel brain or not I'd go with a starter hand loading kit. Its the biggest accuracy gain you can make to any factory rifle in good working order. It's also not as hard as some might deduce from reading online, basic reloading's actually simple as.a matter of fact it's
just basic mechanics. Youre just replacing components of a simple device composed of case, propellant, ignition, and fuel. Pull the lever and the case is deprimed and sized. Squeeze the handle the primer is replaced. Fill it with fuel (powder) and pull the lever to seat the bullet into place. Stay within the minimum and maximum charges in the manual and youre golden.
Test fire with different charges within that window and select which one shoots best.
A starter kit like the Lee can be had for under $150 whats that? The cost of 3 or 4 box's? Then another $35-40 for dies and a few bucks for consumables I still use one my wife bought me 30+ years ago though over time I've added items to my bench. It still turns out plenty of one ragged hole ammo tuned for my rifles.
Jump on in the waters fine and you can make it as simple or complicated as you want to.
You can spend all the money building a custom rifle you want to, but unless youre lucky enough to find a load it likes, its not going to give top performance and often will shoot no better than a factory rig.
With a kit you tune the load for your rifle and make top shelf stuff for barrel bottom money.
Ill say again the biggest accuracy improvement for the least money available, and it will work with all your firearms. Ammo is the key to accuracy in a properly functioning firearm.
Good luck BHJ
A good wife and a steady job has ruined many a great hunter.
Flyn,
I also am doing a "project gun". Bought a 110 in .30/06 and have added a 6.5 CM and a .220 Rocket barrels. Search for whatever shooters are selling in the way of used barrels and then play with it. Put a Boyd's stock on it with a large barrel channel. I may also get into magnum cases and change the bolt head.
I am having a lot of fun doing this. Just for punching holes in paper. All started when a friend was selling his barrel vice, action wrench and a nut wrench.
Dave, may take you up on the Accutrigger!
So are you swapping barrels, back and forth, on the rifle?
Because that idea is what got me started down this rabbit hole to start with. What I'd really like is to be able to have 1 hunting rifle, with barrels in 6.5 PRC, 300WM, and maybe a 35 Whelan.
I'd also like it to break down to fit into a shorter case. But before I go switching barrels back and forth, I thought I'd see if I could switch them once.
When you go from 30/06 to 6.5CM do you have to change bolts or anything else?
That's helpful to hear. I think I'm going to have to bite that bullet, so to speak.
So in terms of building a target gun, that won't break the bank, it sounds like the priorities are:
1) Load Developement
2) Good barrel
3) Glass
4) Chassis
None of which matter, if the biggest problem is still between my ears.
Follow up questions - what do y'all look for in a scope?
Savage touts the aluminum block bedding as helping to improve accuracy. Would you see much benefit from something like an MDT Oryx?
Also - and I realize I'm asking a partial group - what do you like about Savage actions, over brands like howa, ruger, remington?
Have kind of given my impression of scopes back in post 19. It sort of depends on what you intend to do with it. If trying to shoot very small targets at distance then a Second Focal Plain scope with a very fine reticle and 1/8 MOA adjustments really pays off. In my case I am using an Athlon Argos BTR GenII 10-40X56, https://athlonoptics.com/product/arg...6-blr-sfp-moa/ , there are others in this category but most are much more money. If interested in PRS type shooting or varmint shooting then the FFP scopes shine.
In your case my order would be; Load, Glass, Chassis, barrel. I truly believe that Savage 22-250 barrel will hold up well against any other factory barrel and not be far behind many of the aftermarket prefits. It it were me I would shoot it until it has proven it will not perform or you advance in skill and ability. Heck after a year you could even lose interest!
Chassis selection is more personal preference and what strikes your fancy. We all have different likes, looks and needs.
Load development is essential if serious about shooting bug hole groups. Bullet choice and combinations of bullets, powder and load level can all be tuned for maximum performance.
My personal experience is I started with the 223 as an inexpensive way to get started and involved. Now after 2 seasons I have taken this rifle as far as it will go w/o making a change. I am at the point that I am thinking stepping up to the 6mm round or moving to a more Match type barrel with a much faster twist for the 223 to enable the use of more Match type and weight bullets.
This is what I am shooting in league to 300 yards. Also A 300yd target, 223Rem
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