Progressively harder cocking while dry firing

[sholl1060]

Which operation is getting progressively more difficult? You say Cocking. Do you mean Closing the bolt, Lifting the bolt or Pulling Back the bolt? Please be specific on which operation.


Also, you said “disassembly/reassembly” of the Bolt resets it. I’m thinking something is being left out. Did start after initially doing something? Replacing a part? Or taking the bolt apart? There is always something left out.

The act of moving the cocking piece pin from fired to cocked position, whether by lifting the bolt handle after firing or sliding the cocking piece pin up the ramp manually. The rifle is an unfired Stevens 200. I replaced the factory trigger with a Rifle Basix and discovered the cocking problem while tuning the new trigger.

I put the factory trigger back on and tested, no change.

[Dave Hoback]

Are you saying Cocking the striker manually (sliding the Cocking Pin up the ramp), is extra difficult? Doing it manually actually SHOULD be difficult. But the act of cocking, meaning resetting the striker, is accomplished on lifting the bolt handle. So just making sure, it’s your Bolt Lift which is extra stiff, correct?

Well, yes… I knew something was left out..LOL! Always is. Well, I’m going to be honest. Something happened when you replaced the trigger; taking things apart & putting them back together. There is nothing wrong with rifle. You are overlooking something. If you could post a video of the operation, or at least some pictures. Maybe we’ll see what happened. If you aren’t able to retrace to find what you did, you’ll have to find someone a bit more Savage savvy than yourself.

Let me ask one thing. Does the Rear Baffle have a Set Screw where the small bearing balls go? Is that Baffle extremely stiff? Read this article: https://deshind.com/2022/10/15/anoth...t-lift-easier/

[Robinhood]

is the safety assembled adjusted correctly?

[Rocketvapor]

Dave, thanks for the link.
I've been looking for wear indications on the wife's receiver and see where the baffle ball is dragging rotating out of the slot on the bolt.
Is this something that will get worse with time and be a concern or just something that will wear in and get smoother?

[Dave Hoback]

Dave, thanks for the link.
I've been looking for wear indications on the wife's receiver and see where the baffle ball is dragging rotating out of the slot on the bolt.
Is this something that will get worse with time and be a concern or just something that will wear in and get smoother?

What do you mean will it get worse? I mean, no. The screw is usually too tight because people see them & think they should be super tight. But it shouldn’t. The newer rear baffles don’t have the set screws. The bearing balls are held in by each other. On yours, just use lock tight on the set screw. Only tighten the set screw so the spring has no play. Again, the article explains it well.

[Rocketvapor]

No set screw on this one. In the article he mentioned cutting the spring.
If the mark really doesn't get worse, like digging into the slot, then no worries.


"One last treatment for the Gas Baffle is to take both ball bearings out and shorten the spring. This though is tricky and I do not recommend it. First time I tried I lost all the parts and had to source some new ones. It is something though that I am going to add on to the entire process soon."

Wasn't a problem getting the balls out and back in. Just didn't want to cut the spring without a replacement available.
I deburred the edge he showed.

[Dave Hoback]

No set screw on this one. In the article he mentioned cutting the spring.
If the mark really doesn't get worse, like digging into the slot, then no worries.

No, that’s the newer style with opposing bearing balls blocking one another. That one will actually get looser in time. Like a long time.