My most recent Savages - 12 FVs - came with Varmint/Target triggers set at 1 lb. 11 oz. and 1 lb. 14 oz. They are still set as they came from the factory.
My 12 LRP came with the Precision Target trigger (red blade) set at 10 oz.
My older 2008 and 2010 Savages 10 FP and FCP-K law enforcement models came with Varmint/Target triggers set around 3 lbs.
I adjusted them down to 2 lbs. It is very easy to do, but I would recommend getting a trigger gauge, if you do so. It is very easy to over adjust. If you get the adjustment too light, you will find that almost any side pressure will lock up the trigger and you will have to re-cock the trigger. With a Varmint/Target trigger that happens at around 1.5 lbs. With the Precision Target trigger that happens at around 6 oz.
I think a new LRPV may come with a Precision Target trigger so I would guess it is set low enough to satisfy anyone but a competition benchrest shooter.
I agree with Dave Hobeck that reloading, when you figure out what works best for your rifle, will outperform factory loads.
All my rifles shoot better with my hand loads than they do with the best factory ammo - by about 25%.
Ahhh the pursuit of accuracy. Do I do it or stay happy with what you have. Only you know the answer. However the Savage LRPV's are easy to play with. I'm no "smith" but the trigger adjustments are very easy. Just watch a couple of you tube videos. I have also been able to change triggers out of the FV's and replaced them with Rifle Basix triggers set in the 7-9 oz. range. And then you start playing with torqueing of the action screws. Hey , we are just getting started here. LOL. It's a path only you can decide to follow.
With some mechanical aptitude yes, I agree. Unfortunately not everyone has any. We have hundreds & hundreds of threads going back years & years of people who thought they could but were wrong! Don’t get me wrong, I’m all for DIY. If a person knows their way around basic tools, can properly use a Vernier Calipers & understands thousandths of an inch, then yes, I encourage watching some “How To’s” and giving things a try. But if “the difference between 1/4” & 3/8” Drive, an Allen or Torx bit, that .040” or 1mm are basically the same”, have an individual perplexed…, then tearing into any firearm for any kind if adjustment, repair or modification is just asking for trouble. There is a whole world of knowledge that a person should learn before attempting anything on a firearm.
IMHO you are doing as well as your ammo. Much of the std factory .223 ammo I have used was lucky to get to MOA (1" at 100yd, 5" at 500yd, etc). I started reloading the .223 for that reason. You can find some factory ammo such as the IMI Fuj mentioned. There is also the Black Hills and Federal Gold Medal Match. If money is not an issue then Lapua has factory ammo as well. People win matches with premium ammo in this caliber. And, YES, I'd get some 77 or even 80gn loads to try. My cheap Axis in .223 loved 77gn Sierra Match Kings.
I would not mess with the gun except maybe to adjust the trigger. The factory trigger is a good one. I have the varmint trigger (silver blade) on my BVSS and I like it. If you have the red blade target trigger it is considered one of the best for your Savage.
Your factory stock already has an aluminum bedding rail so just torque the screws evenly.
BEWARE!!!! This rifle may become addicting!! Once you start shooting smaller groups you will find you can't stop. Pretty soon you'll want smaller groups. Then you'll make more investments. Pretty soon you will go 'down the rabbit hole' in search of tiny groups and hitting the X ring.
PS where in GA do you shoot at 500yd?
Or… like me, you simply do things on your Savage to do them.. Sure, the groups have tightened up…to a point. However, teeny-tiny groups aren’t my sheer focus. For me it’s the doing. Also, I’ve always enjoyed one of a kind firearms. So having a truly unique Savage Model 10 is fun.
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