Quote Originally Posted by Normrep55 View Post
Thanks for all the replies. This is the kind of information I need to help me make a decision. Now I just need to jump in and get started with a suppressor. Made it to the range yesterday with a few loaded rounds. Haven't purchased any factory ammo yet. Started with Starline brass, Winchester primers and some 208 grain Hornady blems from Midway for the subsonics using W296 and published loads from Sierra. Everything chronographed fairly consistent around 975 for the starters and 1070 for loads closer to the higher end while remaining below supersonic. Happy with those results, but the accuracy is not quite there yet. About 1.25 inches at 50 yards. Not to my liking. More work needed. Maybe try some other bullets and weights. On the supersonics though, I am well pleased. First try with starting load of W296 and Speer 130 grain hollow points right around 2,025 fps and 10 shots through one ragged hole at 50 yards. That's more like it. Everything is low recoiling and the subs are like shooting my 10-22 (maybe a slight exaggeration, but not much). I'm sure things are going to come together and it's going to be a lot of fun. Had a good day letting a few rounds fly. Thanks again for all the advice!
Personally, I would save my components for accuracy testing until after I get a suppressor because all the barrel harmonics are gonna change when you screw a 6-16 oz. chunk of metal on the end. Some cans make accuracy worse and some make it better but if you work up your loads with the can attached you'll know that they're the best that they can be. One more thing about user serviceable cans is to use some kind of reference point such as the logo or serial number on the outside of the can to line up the baffles in the same position inside the outer tube every time. Doing this will minimize any shift in POI when you reattach the can.