Rebarreling an -old- 110?

[Want Big Boom]

I picked up a Savage 110 a while back for very cheap owing to the fact that the barrel is bent. It's a write-off of a barrel and in my research to change it out I've learned that the Savage I have is old. I don't know exactly when it was made but it was definitely sometime between 1958 and 1968 which means it has the "old" style of bolt.

As far as I can tell, all modern production replacement Savage rifle barrels use the "new" style of bolt and aren't compatible with the "old" bolt.

What I'm trying to figure out is if this is something that can be remedied by simply replacing the bolt head to the "new" style and then the barrel or am I going to have to replace the entire bolt itself? Can you even do anything by replacing the bolt or does the receiver only work with the "old" style? Is this something that can even feasibly be done or am I stuck with a barreled receiver that can't really be used?

Savage cannot help with this. In calling them, they don't deal with any Savage rifles made before 1994. Cody Firearms deals with older Savage (yes, the Cody Firearms Museum) and the person I spoke to there had no idea.

I had originally planned to rebarrel it to make it into a more long range precision rifle but if just ends up being a deer downer, I can live with that. Ideally I'd like to rechamber it to .270 Winchester from the 30-06 it is now.

Also curious about the potential for stocks as most first generation Savage stocks I've seen out there are for short actions only.

[PhilC]

The 110 rifles manufactured prior to 1966 are unique as compared to those made later. Probably your best course of action will be to purchase a barrel to fit your existing action. Shaw Barrels is the only barrel manufacturer with the early 110 profile listed as a choice but any barrel manufacturer could make one with proper dimensions from your old barrel.

Look on the barrel, there should be an oval circle with 2 digits (inspector's stamp) and a letter (date code). The date code will tell you year of manufacture:

1957 = I
1958 = J
1959 = K
1960 = M
1961 = N
1962 = O
1963 = P
1964 = Q
1965 = R
1966 = S
1967 = T
1968 = U

[Want Big Boom]

Is there any guidance on where on the barrel that tends to be stamped?

In examining mine, I don't see any markings.

[Dave Hoback]

Should be near the Barrel Nut. https://www.savageshooters.com/showt...nufacture-type

The Action should still have a SN#. Or perhaps on the Bolt sleeve?

As to a rebarrel, it is possible to swap in all new components; new bolt assembly and barrel. However, there is some discrepancy as to whether it would then become a single shot. Because of the magazine/follower, etc. I simply know the parts will fit, and it has been done. I believe the best option to rebarrel an older Savage is going with a Shaw barrel.

They make it super easy. Order online, whatever material, whatever contour, etc, etc. the 2nd drop down choice is for the Shank. Scroll down and you’ll see it lists “Savage Small Shank Old Model 110 w/Bolt Countersink.” Oh, and this is for the standard “Magnum” contour, but on the previous page you can choose Sporter, Heavy Magnum, Varmint & Bull counters in addition. And obviously you can do 270Win.
https://www.shawcustombarrels.com/sh...dard-magnum/15

[Burr]

Should be near the Barrel Nut. https://www.savageshooters.com/showt...nufacture-type

The Action should still have a SN#. Or perhaps on the Bolt sleeve?

As to a rebarrel, it is possible to swap in all new components; new bolt assembly and barrel. However, there is some discrepancy as to whether it would then become a single shot. Because of the magazine/follower, etc. I simply know the parts will fit, and it has been done. I believe the best option to rebarrel an older Savage is going with a Shaw barrel.

They make it super easy. Order online, whatever material, whatever contour, etc, etc. the 2nd drop down choice is for the Shank. Scroll down and you’ll see it lists “Savage Small Shank Old Model 110 w/Bolt Countersink.” Oh, and this is for the standard “Magnum” contour, but on the previous page you can choose Sporter, Heavy Magnum, Varmint & Bull counters in addition. And obviously you can do 270Win.
https://www.shawcustombarrels.com/sh...dard-magnum/15

Thanks Dave. I suppose I'll contact Shaw to see if the old model 110 barrel can or does come with the Boss "bulge" in the barrel. My shot out 300 Win Mag has the Boss, and while not a complete deal breaker, the Boss is recessed into the wood stock.

[Dave Hoback]

I don’t believe Shaw incorporates the bulge.

I can’t tell if you mean you rather have the bulge, or hope it’s not there on a new barrel? Honestly, I don’t see that bulge as anything beyond a Harmonics nightmare!

[PhilC]

Thanks Dave. I suppose I'll contact Shaw to see if the old model 110 barrel can or does come with the Boss "bulge" in the barrel. My shot out 300 Win Mag has the Boss, and while not a complete deal breaker, the Boss is recessed into the wood stock.

Contact Shaw directly to confirm. The "boss" had the dovetail for the rear sight and I seriously doubt it had any negative effect on barrel harmonics. Mine still has the factory barrel and shoots quite well in it's original condition. I've not read of a complaint about barrel harmonics here from anyone with an original pre-66 110.

Let's keep discussion on topic which is pre-66 110s, thanks!

[PhilC]

Is there any guidance on where on the barrel that tends to be stamped?

In examining mine, I don't see any markings.

If it's a factory barrel, the proof stamp (circle with "SP") should be on the left side just forward of the barrel nut, the inspector's stamp is about 3" forward of the barrel nut. Action serial number is on the right front of the action. Bolt may, or may not, be etched with SN.

Some pics of mine here.

[dillwt]

I picked up a Savage 110 a while back for very cheap owing to the fact that the barrel is bent. It's a write-off of a barrel and in my research to change it out I've learned that the Savage I have is old. I don't know exactly when it was made but it was definitely sometime between 1958 and 1968 which means it has the "old" style of bolt.

As far as I can tell, all modern production replacement Savage rifle barrels use the "new" style of bolt and aren't compatible with the "old" bolt.

What I'm trying to figure out is if this is something that can be remedied by simply replacing the bolt head to the "new" style and then the barrel or am I going to have to replace the entire bolt itself? Can you even do anything by replacing the bolt or does the receiver only work with the "old" style? Is this something that can even feasibly be done or am I stuck with a barreled receiver that can't really be used?

Savage cannot help with this. In calling them, they don't deal with any Savage rifles made before 1994. Cody Firearms deals with older Savage (yes, the Cody Firearms Museum) and the person I spoke to there had no idea.

I had originally planned to rebarrel it to make it into a more long range precision rifle but if just ends up being a deer downer, I can live with that. Ideally I'd like to rechamber it to .270 Winchester from the 30-06 it is now.

Also curious about the potential for stocks as most first generation Savage stocks I've seen out there are for short actions only.

If your changing to the new bolt head you can use a standard barrel not the countersink one. You will have to replace bolt head with ejector and extractor and bolt body. need to remove the old extractor but keep the magazine latch and spring. You will also need to replace the firing pin and firing pin stop/cross pin if you replace the bolt head with the new .095 hole.

[Want Big Boom]

I took pictures as best I could of the markings on the barrel.

https://imgur.com/a/L8NkwFz

[Dave Hoback]

Looks like a 1 that is worn down & refinished, followed by 0. And of course “P” which means your rifle was made in 1963.




Again though, Shaw is your best option. That is what I would do. Also use a new machined Recoil lug & Barrel Nut. Take a look at my post #6 in this thread where I’ve outlined just about all the different Barrel Nut options. https://www.savageshooters.com/showt...479#post509479

[J.Baker]

The 1958-66 110's use a uniquely different bolt than the 1966+ 110's as you've found out. To answer your questions...

1. No, you can't simply replace the bolt head with a modern style one as the bolt head retaining pin (in relation to the lugs) is horizontal on one and vertical on the other.

2. Yes, you can replace the entire bolt assembly, but it's costly as you can expect to pay $175-200 for a complete bolt assembly.

3. Best recommendation would be to find a reputable local gunsmith who can custom fit the new barrel to your existing action/bolt. The old style bolts simply require a recess be machined into the breech of the barrel to accommodate the shroud on the older style bolt head (similar to a Remington 700 barrel in that regard)

Pic's showing the differences between the 1966 and earlier style and the 1966 and newer style bolts.

[Want Big Boom]

Alright so I'm going to be looking at a new bolt and barrel. That's doable.

I have this put together for the barrel and I wanted to double check it's what I need before I go for it and then start in on the bolt.

https://imgur.com/a/x9qVWAO