Bedding Recoil Lug

[Dave Hoback]

I’m asking here because the 10/110 is the last I’ve done, but it could be asked of any Action. When I redid my Model 10 last year, I used a Mirage URL Chassis, which had an recess opening for the recoil lug. The lug was perfectly flat against the back portion of the opening, and had something like another 1/4”’of free space in front. I use a .250” Recoil Lug, which was like .249” when I measured this time, after cleaning & sanding it again. I measured the width of the recess and machined another piece of Billet Aluminum. Surfaced it to the exact amount of the recess, less the .249” for Lug. I believe I also surfaced an additional .002” because I hadn’t Cerakoted the Lug at that point. I made certain the semi circle opening of the spacer was undersized so it could NOT make any contact with the Barrel nut. I then epoxied the Aluminum spacer on the front surface of the recess opening, thus bedding the Recoil Lug front & rear. The Chassis already had an exquisite fit. The Action sits very low and is very tight fitting. I actually did have to use my Dremel & a tiny bit to remove just a small amount of material so the rear tang was floated properly. And I had to machine the center edge bevels in the rear shoulder stock leg portion as the BAS was hitting, which would lift the whole bolt upward upon racking back. This is due to the Titanium BAS I use which has a slightly different shape from the factory BAS.

Just wondered, for sake of a tech talk, if anyone else Beds their recoil lug? It’s one of those fairly contested topics. I’ve read of people bedding them traditionally, using tape to take up the unwanted free space, others using perfectly flat machined spacers as I have & of course, those who believe it’s “taboo”, or not “necessary”, which is a completely fair argument. What are some thoughts? I know we’ve had bedding convos here. But I can’t remember ever hearing anything on the bedding the Recoil Lug specifically. Please understand, I’m not looking for advice. I’ve already done what I believe is correct for my situation. Like I said, just thought it’d be an interesting conversation; hearing everyone’s opinion. And if you go into your own bedding ritual or have a story, I’d love to hear it. Maybe here from some of the newer members who have joined the last several months. Here are a few pics showing what I did. And just as I’ve included, pictures are most welcome!

The .250” Recoil Lug along side the machined Aluminum Spacer.


The spacer installed with the Recoil Lug. The Lug is snug* but not overly tight. After Cerakoting I did have to use light sandpaper to fit it perfectly, so the Action now comes free with just a bit of “Persuasion”, LOL!

[jpx2rk]

I've bedded a few recoil lugs only on Model 12's when installing them into laminated stocks. I like the idea of bedding just the lug area better than the entire action area as it reduces the possibilities of locking the action into the action if the bedding material accidently gets into the action screws, etc. A friend helped me bed the entire action on a RAR build a few years back, and I sweated that 24 hr curing period like nothing else. Bedding just the lug reduces the risks IMO, and it has worked well for me. I've used aftermarket lugs for the most part but I acquired a BVSS stock that the PO had bedded only the OEM lug area, and I just put that stock on a factory FV12 set up, and it fits perfect, holds zero and shoots good enough groups for my purpose of varmints. I spend the time to get the action/stock fitment where it just drops in and doesn't move before I bed the lug.

[charlie b]

I consider the area around the lug to be the most important part of the bedding process.

[Robinhood]

I consider the area around the lug to be the most important part of the bedding process.

I agree. The important thing being the lug seated perfectly parallel to the stock/chassis. The natural process of machining makes the chassis very square and perpendicular. While a molded, wood or synthetic, if interested in taking the rifle to the next level, bedding would be a must, because of the nature of the matereial or molding. The chassis may not need it. If you are experiencing precision issues it would not be my first place to look but the experience of the bedding process is very valuable. If you choose to go that route, good luck Dave and I am interested in the results.

[Dave Hoback]

Oh, I’ve already shot this. Not since it went in the new Chassis & Cerakoted, etc. But it’s the same Barreled Action I used in my MDT TAC21 Chassis, that hasn’t changed. I’ve said it before, I can hit the target I want. And I can group rounds relatively consistent; but I’m not a teeny-tiny groups shooter. My shooting is consistent “enough” that I know the rig is better than I am. I only work up loads to inside MOA. As long as I can do under 1moa, I’m happy. I just don’t get out enough anymore for really good load development. But if someone with better eyesight and less propensity to cause a flyer here & there, with proper load development used my rifle, I’ve no doubt this would be more like .500”-.600” 100yd groups all day long. Maybe better, I don’t know for sure. But what I’m not going to sit here and say this is a 1/4moa rifle. Because its likely that 75% or more of people claiming that online are smoking crack to begin with. LOL! (Ever think it’s funny how every shooter & their cousins are ALL shooting 1/4moa?? Am I the only one that finds that highly suspect?) Stock hunting rifles… the 12FV’s everyone was buying up.. even somehow 90% of the Axis’. And let’s not forget the 700’s, Tikka’s & HOWA’s others have.. They all seem to shoot the same 1/4moa online as well. Suspect

[Robinhood]

Oh, I’ve already shot this. Not since it went in the new Chassis & Cerakoted, etc. But it’s the same Barreled Action I used in my MDT TAC21 Chassis, that hasn’t changed. I’ve said it before, I can hit the target I want. And I can group rounds relatively consistent; but I’m not a teeny-tiny groups shooter. My shooting is consistent “enough” that I know the rig is better than I am. I only work up loads to inside MOA. As long as I can do under 1moa, I’m happy. I just don’t get out enough anymore for really good load development. But if someone with better eyesight and less propensity to cause a flyer here & there, with proper load development used my rifle, I’ve no doubt this would be more like .500”-.600” 100yd groups all day long. Maybe better, I don’t know for sure. But what I’m not going to sit here and say this is a 1/4moa rifle. Because its likely that 75% or more of people claiming that online are smoking crack to begin with. LOL! (Ever think it’s funny how every shooter & their cousins are ALL shooting 1/4moa?? Am I the only one that finds that highly suspect?) Stock hunting rifles… the 12FV’s everyone was buying up.. even somehow 90% of the Axis’. And let’s not forget the 700’s, Tikka’s & HOWA’s others have.. They all seem to shoot the same 1/4moa online as well. Suspect

I am not sure what that was about.

I took into consideration what you have formerly said about what you want to get out of a rifle when I wrote my reply to your question. I personally think, given you are in a chassis, you are happy with your grouping and bedding the recoil lug in your application, that it would not realize you much improvement. However, it is your rifle and your experience. If you have never experimented with bedding a rifle ond or it's recoil lug, then the experience with working with the epoxy is worth while.

As I typed this I remember you critisizing me for suggesting to use JB weld as a bedding compound for a hunting/plinking rifle. That would mean that you already have experience with better materials making this....my post moot. My apologies, carry on.

[Dave Hoback]

It’s just a statement Robin, LOL! There is no agenda or point I’m trying to make, or argument. I’m not speaking in an angry voice, LOL! I’m simply speaking with a light heart. Nothing said was addressed towards you, except for answering that I have previously shot this rifle.(barreled Action) And the comments about online claims of 1/4moa have nothing to do with you. Just something I’ve noticed over the years. So, I don’t remember ever criticizing you for using JB weld. I may have said there are better options than JB..which is not criticizing you. It’s a statement of fact. But it doesn’t mean JB doesn’t work. It’s 2-part epoxy, of course it works. Now, if you can find a post where I’m actually criticizing your use, please post it, and I’ll certainly apologize. But simply expressing another product as working better is not criticism. It’s simply an opinion.

But yes, I do have experience bedding. Not before/after testing really. I agree with you on bedding 100% though. My MDT TAC21 had a skim bedding in the front. This Mirage I did not feel bedding was worthwhile as it was already locked in place. Just sitting in the Action with no screws, the Action could not be moved.

I do however, have much more experience in other uses working with different epoxies. The differences in resins, two leading being Epoxy based & Polyester based. (I don’t really use Polyester based as it lacks strength.) I also have quite the experience in which work best with which materials, etc.; there is a difference. And different uses.. bonding, surface build up (which is what bedding is), also Laminating, (like the Carbon Fiber sheet & plate I make). And other uses such as Epoxy Granite. This is all fun stuff to discuss & even better in projects!

[Dave Hoback]

So, to make that all much simpler; I just enjoy discussing these things.

[Robinhood]

So, to make that all much simpler; I just enjoy discussing these things.

Myself as well... sometimes ad nauseam.

[Fuj']

For what it's worth....If I have a need to bed anything, I use Marine-Tex. If it's going
to be a thick coat, I mix in a filler. Powder coat powders work great, or Aerosil. In a
pinch, any bondo. To protect action screws from creep, I coat the action screws and
screw holes with a mix of vasoline and graphite powder.

[GrenGuy]

For what it's worth....If I have a need to bed anything, I use Marine-Tex. If it's going
to be a thick coat, I mix in a filler. Powder coat powders work great, or Aerosil. In a
pinch, any bondo. To protect action screws from creep, I coat the action screws and
screw holes with a mix of vasoline and graphite powder.

I don’t get this ? That mixture is a LUBRICANT ??

[Dave Hoback]

I don’t get this ? That mixture is a LUBRICANT ??

No Gren. Marine-Tex is a 2-part Epoxy which cures resists moisture. What’s called a “marine” grade epoxy. Not all are. And Aerosil is a Silica based build up agent. Gives more rigidity & strength to a bonding agent. The vasoline & graphite powder mix he’s using as a release agent. That’s all.

[nksmfamjp]

Well, I’m an engineer, so please forgive my overly theoretical nature.

I have a Savage 12BVSS in 300 WSM. Well, let’s just call it a full custom 300 WSM as no part has been left untouched. Thanks Fred!

When I had a wooden stock, it shot well. MOA or so. Mind you, my shooting, reloading, skills, time available have all changed over time too. I fully bedded the wood stock because there is just going to be variation and excess space in a CNC wood inlet. And there was. This really made it consistently better. It increased accuracy noticeably. Best groups of 5 around 0.6”@100yds. Actually most were.

Dropping it in a chassis made no difference. I thought The ergos were ok, but not great. I kept going after accuracy and had it rebarreled and a T&T done. It was ok, but some groups were in the 0’s and some were 1.5”. Hmmm. Well, sorting through my reloads, I found those with concentricity under 0.007” shot well and over that shot like crap. Hence my 3-4 into 0.5” and 1-2 out causing 1.7”. Chasing concentricity in my brass caused more neck turning, more measuring, more scrap, more struggle, so I buried it I. The back of the safe..

Now I have a 100 ADG inbound and no stock or chassis! More to come.

Anyways, based on what I see in the way chassis fit and clamp….this and other rifles, I won’t bed them….I would consider bedding the lug opening if I saw a bedding issue with clay. Or just an off center fit….and poor accuracy.

With stocks, IMO, most need a full bed. There just is no real good way to make the soft or poorly machineable materials fit exactly. Bedding only the front lug seems like a maufacturers best balance between bedding and doing nothing. I see little use for it in the gunsmith or hobbiest tool box. It is about saving grams of epoxy, seconds of time and ensuring no accidental glue ins. I’ll bet gun makers that do it, take fully built barreled actions, ready to ship stocks, put measured glue in the stock, compress by jig and tighten to torque. Getting just enough bedding to hold/center the lug. Then box and ship still wet!

[GrenGuy]

No Gren. Marine-Tex is a 2-part Epoxy which cures resists moisture. What’s called a “marine” grade epoxy. Not all are. And Aerosil is a Silica based build up agent. Gives more rigidity & strength to a bonding agent. The vasoline & graphite powder mix he’s using as a release agent. That’s all.

Yes Dave, being a Boater, I am very familiar with Marine-Tex. I got My “creeps” mixed up, LOL. I was thinking about My new found awareness of Stock Creep. With Your explanation, I now see that Fuj was referring to Bedding creeping into unwanted places in and on action screws and parts. As release agents, I use 2 that have been fail safe for Me. Kiwi Clear Shoe Polish, and Hornady One Shot Case Lube. The case lube makes it real simple.

Thanks for the clarification.

[Dave Hoback]

Gotchya. I certainly wasn’t trying to be condescending. Sorry if it seems like that. Not my intention. The explanation was simply meant for anyone reading who may not have known.