Have you checked the primer cups themselves for consistency? I use a Lee Auto Bench Primer.
Have you checked the primer cups themselves for consistency? I use a Lee Auto Bench Primer.
"They couldn't hit an elephant at this distance." Last words of Gen. Sedgwik
You could spend a Kajillion dollars on one of those tools like the one that D-Orkan Primal Rights guy makes. He swears by it making a difference. Buuut… This duf is the biggest Savage hater I’ve come across. He hates them so much, he straight up LIES about things. Not only that, but he hates Savage owners as well. Because of that, I wouldn’t trust anything comes out his mouth. So I wouldn’t buy one… I’ve even seen WBM argue with his nonsense.
I use a Hollands primer pocket uniformer, and hand prime with a Sinclair. I never have
a proud primer other then the occasional high anvil. I get practically none with BR2's
and more then I want with Federal Champions, and only use those for fire forming.
Keeping my bad Karma intact since 1952
I thought about this a little on my walk this afternoon and I think it got worse after I bought the Redding bullet seating die and the Redding shell holder. I wonder if there is something about the Lee shell holder that makes it work better with the Lee press or something with the Redding holder that makes it not work with the Lee press. It's something that needs exploring anyway.
If you are wanting expecting a higher level of accuracy other than just plinking, you first have to consider what others that share you interest in accuracy and precision believe.
Fuj is not the only accuracy/precision minded person here but is an example of the direction you might want to investigate. He has proven over time what is effective and can produce long strings of shots fired into small groups that most would be proud of. Looking at what he post it is obvious he has a process that is effective.
Opinions are a dime a dozen on the internet, proven processes are the crux.
I used a sinclair for years. If it is still being made, you would be hard pressed to use your money wiser.
The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.
It is but currently out of stock Sinclair hand priming tool.
Every single person reloading for accuracy will use a hand primer, primer pocket reamer and primer pocket cleaner. Tumbling alone don't cut it. Also, the primer holes must be drilled to the same exact same size.
All casings have to be same length and weight. An inside neck reamer must be used, and all bullets and powder hand weighed.
I appreciate your opinion, but in general, within the last 5-10 years, most accuracy minded reloaders, whom are competitive, are using a bench tool with some kind of stop. I believe in the last few years, this is often the CPS tool from primal rights. There are probably still a handful seating by feel which seems possible, although not super repeatable.
I’m not sure this is much better than the hand tools with a stop like the K&M as long as the Reloader has a way to get to the stop on every round and there is little tool flex.
With a micrometer. Take a primer and measure from the base to the rim. Large rifle primers can be anywhere between 0.1230” and 0.1360”. Small rifle from 0.1150” to 0.1260”
But for any given batch they should be close to identical. I have found the occasional CCI200 that is shorter in a tray of 100.
https://ballistictools.com/articles/...d-diameter.php
"They couldn't hit an elephant at this distance." Last words of Gen. Sedgwik
If you are sure a hand primer is the best thing since sliced bread, I’m not sure what I can offer. First, have you ever spent any tech’s at the primer companies? They communicate a similar story. Basically seat until the anvil touches and then just a bit more. None of them could define a bit more. They could all define too much. That is when the compound is broken. None had any testing about how much a bit more is. Is it worth controlling the amount of a bit more. None of them had any data or testing related to that so no opinion.
Erik Cortina and Greg seemed to agree that this “bit more” control was important, but how much remains unclear….I cannot define “a lot”.
The other things the techs agreed on is that hand priming would be really hard to control due to very high force to seat right.
So, I take from that….I need a high force tool that will stop before I break the compound. As a side benefit, if Erik and Greg know what they are talking about, a precise stop could be important….or not.
Basically I agree with what you are saying. Here is something to consider. Most reloading tools you buy and use some cost you about 20% to use….somewhat time and wear dependent. The CPS seems to resell, sight unseen, for same as current website price. So whether you like it or not, there is low risk to try it.
There is a similar competitor made by Holland’s. Looks pretty good. I ordered one. Shipping was 300% of normal shipping and they charge 5% to use a card. Both of these are non-refundable. The product price is refundable unopened. It comes wrapped in paper and tape. So, I couldn’t even look at it. On the phone they warned me not to push too hard as people break the handle. I have heard this other places too. So, is the Holland an equal competitor? Not sure. You decide.
I would disagree. The primer company tech don’t disagree, but they agree force can be very high. Hollands has customers and students that break the RCBS handle and their improved handle. I don’t think my hand primer can do that! So I need more force!
Why do you use a uniforming tool? What are you uniforming to? You likely need control from the top of the rim to the bottom of the primer pocket. I think I trust Lapua or Alpha to control that.
So, yes, I’m trying the CPS. It seems to work as advertised. Would like to build some data that shows it builds ammo with more accuracy, same or worse. Would like some depth testing too.
I've loaded over 56,000 rounds with one of two RCBS universal hand primers - I used one for about 25,000 rounds and got tired of having to switch between small and large primers so I bought a second and set up one primer for each type of primer.
I have never had a protruding primer.
Even now that I am almost 80 and my hands are getting pretty weak, I still have no problem seating primers that are appropriately deep in the primer pockets.
The RCBS Universal hand primers don't use shell holders like the older RCBS models. Never had to worry about shell holders either.
I have used hand primers a lot over the years, mainly the older Lee model (round trays) and the Hornady (cause it was the only one in the store when I needed one).
Most of my priming now is on my Lee Loadmaster...but...it has been modified. I changed it to a hand operation. A removable extension was added to the factory lever. So the case is raised to the upper position and then the lever is used to seat the primer, much like many of the bench primers you can find on the market. I like being able to feel the primers seat.
For my 'good' brass I use a primer pocket uniform tool. I had heard about the flash hole burr on some Lapua brass and it was suggested to remove it.
Bookmarks