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Thread: Need help with Choate stock upgrade....

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  1. #1
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    I didn’t think you were. HAHAHA…. I think I need Smiley faces on all my posts.

    Trust me Robin, nothing I’m saying is meant with any opposition. I’m sorry it’s sounding like that that to you. But it’s not what I’m thinking. When you read my posts, read the with a happy voice in your head, not an angry one, LOL!

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dave Hoback View Post
    I didn’t think you were. HAHAHA…. I think I need Smiley faces on all my posts.

    Trust me Robin, nothing I’m saying is meant with any opposition. I’m sorry it’s sounding like that that to you. But it’s not what I’m thinking. When you read my posts, read the with a happy voice in your head, not an angry one, LOL!
    You're a good man, Charlie Brown. :) Maybe we can all meet up some day and send a few down range together.

    My 112 in .338 LM will put a group sub-MOA with factory ammo, but to your point, I did try 3 different brands of ammo to see what it may like and to get enough brass to start reloading.

    The 6.5 PRC just doesn't have a lot of factory ammo offerings. I'll work through it eventually.

  3. #3
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    MDT stock is on. Very nice fitment.

    As a follow-up, Savage did return my email and told me that if I wanted to send the rifle to them, they would let their gunsmiths take a look at it because the grouping was not normal.

    I'm going to give it another shot today (no pun intended) with the new stock and some different ammunition before I make that decision.

    On another note, I found this nice .016" gap between the picatinny rail and the receiver last night. Fixed it this morning. Just seems like whomever assembled this rifle zonked down the front screws first before they tightened the rear screws. I pulled the rail off, checked for debris/burrs, then checked fitment without screws. It fit great, so I tightened them evenly and torqued it. No more gap.




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    I went to the range again. It seems to favor the Hornady ammunition a little better, but I noticed that after I fixed the problem with the rail raising up in the back this morning, it has started to come back up again. No doubt that this is causing some issues with how the rifle shoots.

    You can see in the picture above how the rail sits flush against the action. There is now another gap starting.

  5. #5
    Basic Member Robinhood's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by blykins View Post
    You can see in the picture above how the rail sits flush against the action. There is now another gap starting.
    Some rail manufacturers make the contact points inside of the outside edge, not a true 3.500" radius. I have seen that before. Barring it having the wrong screw profile, stripped threads or a bent action, consider bedding it with J&B Weld and moving forward.
    The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.

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    This is one that just doesn't make sense to me.

    I had the rifle stripped down this morning when I saw the initial gap problem. I took the rings off, pulled the rail off, checked for any issues, then laid the rail back on the action. It sits perfectly flush and straight. The bolts went back in and held torque. I thought I had fixed it.

    It didn't take 10 rounds for me to start seeing daylight in between the rail and the action at the range this afternoon and by the time I was done, this is what I was seeing again (I stuck my fingers in the way so my phone would focus):



    So why is it happening? If the rail sits flush and the screws hold torque, how is it popping up? No doubt that this is what is causing the grouping issues, if the hindend of the scope is moving around, I'm just chasing myself around the target.

    I'm reluctant to put JB Weld on it, just from the standpoint that if I ever had to remove the rail, there'd be no good way of getting it off cleanly and easily.

    I can't say that the rail is warped or bowed, because it sat down flush and fit the receiver very nicely this morning. I'm just perplexed right now.

    That MDT chassis is straight up awesome though LOL

  7. #7
    Basic Member Robinhood's Avatar
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    "I'm reluctant to put JB Weld on it, just from the standpoint that if I ever had to remove the rail, there ould be no good way of getting it off cleanly and easily. " Release agent makes it come off easily. It is your rifle though and I am not going to push anything on you............................................... .................................................. .................................................. ......................... There is only one answer to your issue. The threads are either stripped on the screws or hole, or they are the wrong thread size, IE... #6 crew where a #8 screw should be used. At the same time there is a situation that is making the rail lift. Weather it is the way the rings are mounted, a bent rail, a bent action or a restriction keeping one of those components from seating properly. Anything purchased used for a savage comes with risk. There are a lot of fledgling "Savagesmiths" out there doing things they have no business doing. Due to savages being easily customizable by an experience or knowledgeable person, the inexperienced and ignorant often try and do things they shouldn't be. So inspect everything for fit s you go together.
    The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by blykins View Post
    This is one that just doesn't make sense to me.

    I had the rifle stripped down this morning when I saw the initial gap problem. I took the rings off, pulled the rail off, checked for any issues, then laid the rail back on the action. It sits perfectly flush and straight. The bolts went back in and held torque. I thought I had fixed it.

    It didn't take 10 rounds for me to start seeing daylight in between the rail and the action at the range this afternoon and by the time I was done, this is what I was seeing again (I stuck my fingers in the way so my phone would focus):



    So why is it happening? If the rail sits flush and the screws hold torque, how is it popping up? No doubt that this is what is causing the grouping issues, if the hindend of the scope is moving around, I'm just chasing myself around the target.

    I'm reluctant to put JB Weld on it, just from the standpoint that if I ever had to remove the rail, there'd be no good way of getting it off cleanly and easily.

    I can't say that the rail is warped or bowed, because it sat down flush and fit the receiver very nicely this morning. I'm just perplexed right now.

    That MDT chassis is straight up awesome though LOL
    Thanks for the dialogue.

    This particular rifle came with the rail mounted to the rifle from Savage. I added the rings and scope (and of course the stock).

    I didn't know that there was a release agent for JB Weld. Interesting.

  9. #9
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    I’m willing to bet THAT was your accuracy issue right there.

  10. #10
    Basic Member Robinhood's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dave Hoback View Post
    I’m willing to bet THAT was your accuracy issue right there.
    No Doubt.
    The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.

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