I'm wondering if anyone has bedded an Accufit stock or if it even pays to.
Thank you.
I'm wondering if anyone has bedded an Accufit stock or if it even pays to.
Thank you.
Bedding any stock or Chassis is never a bad idea, but the gains won’t be as seen on some over others. The Accufit stock already uses a full length Aluminum block. Which is the ideal bedding material. However, it is a mass produced ordeal by Savage. So having the consistency of an aftermarket setup is not something I would bet on. I would shoot it first. Likely gains in accuracy would only be seen, if the rifle was simply not accurate to begin with, with any loads, factory or loaded. That said, if an Accufit Savage is giving the owner already SUB 1” groups or better…, bedding the stock will not miraculously turn it into a 1/4MOA rig.
Once again, in case it was missed: Bedding any stock or chassis is never a bad thing as long as it’s done correctly.
Like all things in here. Shoot it first. Then try to pin down what is causing larger than desired groups FYI, many factory loads will not shoot 1MOA or better until you get into the match loads.
Exactly.
The interesting thing about the Accustock and its alluminum cradle, it is flexible. The most accurate hunting rifle I had was a bedded Stevens stock. That is eye opening.
Completely seperate and without getting philisophical, I am going to say that if you are willing to put up with the weight, go for it. Please do a load workup before and after and show the results.
The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.
Fo sho I would be skim bedding it and fo sho the recoil lug. Cheers. Why not. It’s not going to hurt accuracy.
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Thanks all. This stock does not come with the aluminum insert. Only two small pillars for front and rear screws.
Then my question would be is the stock too flexible for bedding to do any good?
Is yours an Ultra-Light? That version I know, does not have the Aluminum Chassis cradle. Instead, just the pillars as you mentioned. Only one that doesn’t that I’m aware of. For the weight savings obviously.
And in that case, yes bedding, along with the pillars is ideal for this. I would do it.
To my knowledge the 110 Ultralight, 110 Lightweight Storm and 110 Apex Storm XP all come with the Accufit adjustable LOP but not the Accustock aluminum block. For the UL and LWS it would be for weight savings like you said, and for the Apex XPs I imagine it's for cost savings. Also I notice the LWS and Apex XP have the LOP adjustments but not the cheek riser adjustments like the full Accufit/Accustock has. The Ultralight stock seems to be unique that it has both Accufit adjustments but no Accustock block.
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My apologies. I saw accufit and read Accustock. I still say do it. I did add pillars. I did the front and rear but it is your stock. I saw a serious accuracy improvement. Rigidity? Harmonics? Who knows. It worked.
The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.
All that I’ve read the “Accustock” aluminum bedding was included in the Accufit offerings except for the ultra light. What model do have?
I know at least many of them are. So, they aren’t ALL different. American Rifle from 2018:
https://www.americanrifleman.org/con...ape-of-savage/
On my Ultralite's Accufit stock, no portions of the pillars were contacting the action. They were about 60 thou below the stock's action surface. There was not distinct "lock up" of the action screws when torqued to 30, then 34, and then to the 38-40# spec. It felt like mush, as the polymer stock was compressiing but not achieving metal-to-metal contact. Any additional torque would likely stress the action. The Accufit stock does not have radiused pillars either. Notably, when placing the barreled action into the stock, there us side-to-side rocking. That means the action screws are also doing the duty of centering the action vertically. At the various torques I applied, I noticed a tiny bit of movement signs in the stock, and unacceptable vertical shot strings from high to low at 600 to 850 yards. I called Savage and explained my concerns, and they promptly stated that they are sending me a new stock. In the meantime for the sake of providing you folks with entertainment, I radiused my current stock and pillars with a 1" pipe wrapped with a full sheet of 80-grit, using soft rubber shims to keep the pipe centered in the forend channel. I sanded until the the rear "cut" pillar almost became fully radiused, and the most of the front pillar became radiused. The radius rig I described is slightly smaller than the action radius, which should put a nice squeeze on the action as I torque the action screws. I noticed a definate lock up in the action screws as I put the gun back together. The front action screw is at 40#, and the rear is at 34". I'm hopping in the buggy and heading down to rip some off to see what the results are and report back. I can't seem to post pics.
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