First time DIY barrel swap. Go/nogo headspaced OK without extractor/ejector, as commonly recommended. Then, checked headspace with extractor/ejector and bolt would not close on go gage. What is going on here? What is the true headspace? Thanks for any suggestions.
You sure the extractor snapped over the rim of the go-gauge?
Thinking that as well. Or, did you check it WITHOUT those parts, then FINISH torquing? Did you check again AFTER torquing, or not again until everything was in. If so, you could have spun the barrel in a bit more with torquing.
This is the first question I had. Easy to spin the action on the barrel and change headspace inadvertently.Originally Posted by Dave Hoback
I've always left the extractor in. I can feel it push over the rim and I'm just lazy enough that if it isn't a problem, I don't want the extra work. Not to mention risking shooting a bearing and spring across my garage. Been there done that and it sucks.
I have never removed the Ejector or the Extractor from any bolt head when setting the head space on any barrel. I've probably swapped out over two dozen barrel's over the years, and have never had a single issue with the head space not being perfect every time.
I agree with David that it is very easy to rotate the barrel or action depending on what you have clamped. I use a action wrench and barrel vise to control that movement.
As an experinced Savagesmith(A regular guy who works on his own stuff), I agree with Txhillbilly. For an inexperienced Savagesmith, this is where having the go and no go gauge or using a shim/tape is used so you know exactly where you are. Double check, tripple check before you move on to the next operation in your process. Ask more questions. Good luck.
The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.
He led before and after and was very careful to avoid spinning lug and action. Solution is mentioned above.
+1I have never removed the Ejector or the Extractor from any bolt head when setting the head space on any barrel. I've probably swapped out over two dozen barrel's over the years, and have never had a single issue with the head space not being perfect every time.
I guess it’s best we remember there is no “better” way of doing each job. There is only the way each of chooses. Some of us do it BOTH ways depending on our mood even. As long as the same outcome is reached, the path getting there is moot.
It would not. See my post further down
Good stuff brother! Glad you got it down.
I always wondered why some suggested to do it without the extracted and ejector, it always seemed to me you’d want the headspace perfect with the gun in a condition to fire. Glad I read this thread, it was. A great question I didn’t know I had
The point is if it changed anything, it wouldn't be TRUE headspace. Proper headspace is from the FACE of the Bolt Head... NOT the SURFACE of the Ejector. The way some of you are likening this to being as "condition to fire" is completely wrong. I'm not saying it's wrong or bad to check with the ejector in, but as we JUST SAW in the OP's case, the Ejector WAS causing an INCORRECT reading because it was TOO long. The fact remains that DOESN'T happen with the Ejector removed. And it doesn't create some situation of checking with it NOT in "ready to fire". It CAN'T be a false reading with the Ejector out. That's the only thing some of you need to realize.
Once again, because I know reading comprehension isn't what it once was, it's FINE to check it EITHER way. But understand if there are different readings, SOMETHING is wrong. Just as the OP found out. It's GOOD he checked with the Ejector out, otherwise he would have had a FALSE reading, as the Ejector was sitting PROUD of the bolt face.
It did not, that was the problem. After the initial post, I solved the problem by lightly filing the face of the extractor which was slightly proud of the bolt face and lubing the bevel of the extractor. Then bolt easily closed on the go gauge and would not on the nogo. Extractor removed the go from the chamber normally.
The first 260 I rebarreled I only bought a go gauge and use two layers of shipping tape for the no go, about .0035" IIRC. When I did the last one, I bought the matching Forster no go gauge. After I was finished, I checked the first rifle with the no go gauge and the bolt wouldn't close on it.
I also did a 22-250 last summer and used Manson gauges, both have a slot milled in them for the ejector, pretty good idea IMO. The bottom line is both methods will work fine if you pay attention. Get sloppy and you'll have poor results.
Well said Justin. Or, as was in the case of the OP’s, a part might just be out of spec, like the Ejector sitting proud in his rifles bolt head.
If would not initially, then got is was able to after filing the ejector face slightly and lubricating the ejector bevel
Without.
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I remove the extractor easy enough to do. I leave the ejector pita to remove, but I make sure it will compress into the bolt face.
Thanks guys for your observations and comments. Sorry I am so late with a response. Makes me confident leaving in the extractor and ejector. By way of closure, after my post I lightly filed the ejector face as it was slightly proud of the bolt face. This and a little lube on the extractor bevel produced perfect results with both new brass and the two headspace gauges.
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