Oryx CAN be milled out to accept 3.85 CIP Magazine. Its beautiful 110FCP 300PRC

[nathantc]

tried to get a rough zero while i wait for my scope level. I think one of two things is messing me up here.
1-i have no way of knowing for sure if i canted the rifle between shots. Platform, hill side, and target were all unlevel so i have nothing to go on.
2-the monopod i chose is brand name garbage from sako. Folds under recoil and is very unstable. Could have also been the cause

Each shot from my perspective was very stable, i was sure of each shot. The bottom sting is me getting on zero or close enough to get started. The 3 shot group at the top was me aiming at the very point of the red bar. 1.5" group is absolutely unacceptable regardless of ammo. Ammo used is Hornady match 300PRC 225g.

Im betting the monopod and lack of knowing if im canting hurt me here, but im pretty sure there is more to it than that. I hear some barrels need some breaking in to shoot. I personally have only seen this to be true of 22lr.

Bottom line, i may be having a custom barrel made if i cant get this down to .5" at 100 yards. I personally can print groups like that, but something bout my setup "feels" off under recoil. Due to the hard to find triple priced ammo, im stopping here till get an accu-shot monopod. Personally i think they are ugly as sin, but i know from usingthing they are rock solid, and do not move under recoil.


im leaning towards monopod issues as its more horizontal stinging. Noticed not just in the 3 shot group. Out of frame on the photo are the first 2 rounds fired. Very high, and to the right. Both shots were nearly dead level but were exactly 1.5" apart. So i am seeing a pattern of horizontal stinging. The bipod is rock steady, does not hop under recoil. The only thing that stopped me from staying on target under recoil was the monopod folding under recoil causing the rifle to sift from my shoulder. Best i could tell i was planted behind the rifle (prone on my trailer deck) correctly. The bipod feet didn't appear to move from where they were before the shot. After i get a level (currently in the mail) on this scope ill try again using a bag to see if there is any change. Especially eliminating rifle cant from the equation.

On my 22wmr at 100 yards. i can fire a 3 shot group keeping the rifle dead level. then fire one shot with the bubble in the level riding the line. When i do this the odd shot will be up to 2" off target. So i know that can play a huge part.

I'm really hoping that the most expensive savage i ever bought, will not end up being the worst shooting one i ever sold.

[Fuj']

Bottom line, i may be having a custom barrel made if i cant get this down to .5" at 100 yards.

I'm really hoping that the most expensive savage i ever bought, will not end up being the worst shooting one i ever sold.

One factor not in this equation is the ammo your using. That barrel may be capable of shooting
bugholes but as has been said long ago....Garbage in, garbage out. Did you use factory ammo
or something you loaded ?? And yeah; That monopod is not doing you any favors. And if that
bipod can freely rotate on the spigot, again your not doing yourself any favors.

[nathantc]

One factor not in this equation is the ammo your using. That barrel may be capable of shooting
bugholes but as has been said long ago....Garbage in, garbage out. Did you use factory ammo
or something you loaded ?? And yeah; That monopod is not doing you any favors. And if that
bipod can freely rotate on the spigot, again your not doing yourself any favors.

On all my bipod equipped rifles, i shoot better groups with the cant being set where it "almost" freely moves. has always worked better for me, maybe not for others.
Hornady match 225g 300PRC, ammo is super hard to find right now so its all ive got (i know nothing about reloading). Usually get good result from Hornady match in other chamberings. Keep in mind this was only 100 yards, so that spread is terrible.

I'm thinking, even though that palm shelf grip worked for me in the past, it maybe hindering me on this rifle (inducing torque unknowingly to me), the monopod is nice for what it is, but not doing what i need. May try the oem MDT grip, and a rear bag next to be sure. Just to damned hot in the middle of the day. Don't like covering my rifle in sweat.

If changing all the "free" variables makes no difference. Ill lock the chassis into a shooting vice, use my air plunger for the trigger and see whats what. If that also fails, this barrel will be up for sale

Now, what i did do prior to shooting.
action screws torqued at 60 inch pounds
rail to receiver screws torqued at 25 inch pounds
Warne skyline mount to rail torqued at 25 inch pounds
warne skyline mount to scope torqued at 18 inch pounds.

So my theory is that should all be good to go.

[Fuj']

On all my bipod equipped rifles, i shoot better groups with the cant being set where it "almost" freely moves.

The reason I mention this is all about barrel torque. Those heavy loads found an easy path
to rotate the rifle on that bipod set up. My advice is to pull it, and shoot it off bags, fore and aft.
50% of my match shooting is done off a GGG bipod. Once set for a particular senario, It's locked
down tight....Once you get your load locked down, add back the bipod for a comparison.

[nathantc]

The reason I mention this is all about barrel torque. Those heavy loads found an easy path
to rotate the rifle on that bipod set up. My advice is to pull it, and shoot it off bags, fore and aft.
50% of my match shooting is done off a GGG bipod. Once set for a particular senario, It's locked
down tight....Once you get your load locked down, add back the bipod for a comparison.

I like that idea. Ill give it a shot.

[nathantc]

The reason I mention this is all about barrel torque. Those heavy loads found an easy path
to rotate the rifle on that bipod set up. My advice is to pull it, and shoot it off bags, fore and aft.
50% of my match shooting is done off a GGG bipod. Once set for a particular senario, It's locked
down tight....Once you get your load locked down, add back the bipod for a comparison.

OK decided to sweat my ass off. Keep in mind this gets expensive for me. The 20 rounds fired are $90 a box here locally. so ouch.

the blue squares are exactly 3/4" side to side for reference

First 2 groups fired are with the set up as it was




3rd and 4th are using a rolled up towel as a rear bag (dont own one) It was not at all better but i was happy to see a change. Crazy part is im not seeing that kind of error in the scope when firing. Its odd enough i almost want to try a different optic just to be sure, but changing how i rest the rear of the rifle changed the group pattern so probably not the issue




5th group was using a craptastic gun rest as an adjustable rear bag. Also not so great (EDIT GROUP WAS ACTUALLY 1.25")




6th group was standing, rifle supported on the bipod, off hand in the hand hook position on the stock, last 5 rounds of the 20 fired. I cannot prove it, but the last two that are nearly touching to the left, were the last two fired, and both times i noticed i moved that direction as i fired. So i feel that group could have been better. (EDIT, GROUP WAS ACTUALLY 1.25")



All of this, what do you think of it. So far changing how the rifle is supported has changed the pattern. Standing i feel was better because i can get the recoil pad in a more comfortable position than i can prone. The cure for that should be here tuesday as i ordered this to fix it https://www.ebay.com/itm/284261538223

I feel now for sure its something im doing wrong, just not sure what exactly just yet. This is my first chassis rifle so maybe its a learning curve?

[nathantc]

one other thing to note is, every one of my "first" shots on each group, was the one closest to point of aim. Fluke, or clue idk.

[GrenGuy]

I have yet to see a Savage action torqued to 60 in #’s shoot well, I don’t care what the stock manufacturer recommends. Any rifle can benefit from torque tuning the action and I have found that figure to be 45 in/lbs or less, and depending on the rifle 30 can be enough. Even a metal chassis “can” benefit from bedding.

Your shooting a big boomer in a relatively light rifle. I think there’s a reason Your first round is POI and You best group is standing. If I had to shoot that round in that rifle prone or from a bench, I’m sure I would have a 1 1/2” FLINCH, and I ain’t no wimp. The first round is on, now the body knows what’s coming with the second.

For proofing a rifle with factory ammo, FGMM is the standard for initially establishing what a rifle will do. Your rifle may not like Hornady, no matter what success You had with it in the past. Your rifle demands reloading, IMO.

You built a Tactical Rifle, not a Bench Rest rifle. It is capable of hitting center mass at sniper distances, and is therefore acceptable. I suspect it can be improved.

In My opinion, Your in to big a hurry. Going out and shooting in uncomfortable conditions is not the best way to tune a rifle. A lot of good rifles have been sold at bargain prices because the owner tried to fix too many things at the same time.

I only rely on levels for initial bench set up. After that, I train Myself to plum the vertical cross hair by sight.

All of My comments were meant to by helpful, and I hope no offense was taken by any. Best of Luck with Your build.