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Thread: Oryx CAN be milled out to accept 3.85 CIP Magazine. Its beautiful 110FCP 300PRC

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  1. #1
    Team Savage nathantc's Avatar
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    now THIS is really going to help. Now i can get into a natural COMFORTABLE position behind the rifle without having to adjust my neck and shoulder to compensate to the rifle. I can also keep the recoil impulse in a direct straight line with the bore when in prone now. Before hand only the upper corner of the but pad landed low on my body making the rifle kinda want to go under me during recoil.







    Ordered this from the Czech Republic. Its universal and would be extremely easy to use any recoil pad you like, on any rifle you want to attach it to. I will be upgrading my recoil pad to something thicker, and softer. When i do the spacers you see in the photos (came with the product) will be removed to compensate thickness. This thing is beautifully machined and finished. well worth the $125 shipped it cost me. I just might be cutting my boyds pro varmint stocks down to compensate for this on both of them.
    https://www.tactical-evo.com/en/usef...universal.html

    EDIT
    here is this piece compared to the MDT spacer thickness for reference





  2. #2
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    nathantc,

    Sorry to intrude in your interesting interchange, but both my Oryx chassis mounted on 12FV Savage actions (.223 and 6.5mm Creedmoor) are torqued to 60 in.-lbs. and they both shoot great.
    They are mounted on Sinclair Gen 3 F-Class bi-pods using a rear bag shot from a bench and my results are in both the Ammunition and Reloading threads and the 110-Series Bolt-Action Threads.
    The Sinclair bipods don't rotate once clamped down so I can't speak to the impact of a bi-pod that moves while you are setting up.

    The Oryx torque recommendation is 60 in.-lbs so the comments about Savage actions not being torqued that tight are not based on knowledge of Oryx stocks.

    Don't give up on your new barrel just yet.
    You obviously know what you are doing, and it looks to me that you have an outstanding set up. But it might help to check out a couple of little things that could be causing you problems with a new rifle with just a little time behind the trigger. Not every problem is solved by modifying equipment. Set-up consistency can eliminate a lot of shooter induced variations.

    Consider that the Oryx stock has little to no drop in the stock (like a recoil tube AR) so if you have the rifle mounted low on the bench or low when you are shooting prone, you may be hunched over.
    That would create real problems trying to get a consistent set up.
    And variations in your set up will move the POI around, even if you think you are aiming at exactly the same point.

    1) Moving in or out on the scope could be moving your POI up or down respectively. I have measured that about 1/8 inch change in eye relief can move your POI by 1/4 inch. It is that sensitive.

    2) Also, if you are not on the optical plane of the scope, you could be moving the POI to the right or left.
    (To avoid such problems, I check my position before each shot by slightly moving my head back from the scope eye piece until I see the black ring around the scope image.
    If the black ring is concentric, I know I am on the optical plane and just move back until the ring goes away making sure it stays concentric until it just disappears. Stopping when the black ring just disappears also eliminates moving in too far on the scope and helps with eliminating item the problem described in item 1)

    3) And lastly, if you are seeing the scope move off your POA after a shot, probably to the right, you have the butt of the stock too far out of the notch in you shoulder.
    The recoil is pushing your shoulder back and the barrel is moving to the right.
    Even a slight movement during recoil actually moves the POI even though the bullet takes only about 1 millisecond to go down the barrel.

    I hope this helps.

  3. #3
    Team Savage nathantc's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by CFJunkie View Post
    nathantc,

    Sorry to intrude in your interesting interchange, but both my Oryx chassis mounted on 12FV Savage actions (.223 and 6.5mm Creedmoor) are torqued to 60 in.-lbs. and they both shoot great.
    They are mounted on Sinclair Gen 3 F-Class bi-pods using a rear bag shot from a bench and my results are in both the Ammunition and Reloading threads and the 110-Series Bolt-Action Threads.
    The Sinclair bipods don't rotate once clamped down so I can't speak to the impact of a bi-pod that moves while you are setting up.

    The Oryx torque recommendation is 60 in.-lbs so the comments about Savage actions not being torqued that tight are not based on knowledge of Oryx stocks.

    Don't give up on your new barrel just yet.
    You obviously know what you are doing, and it looks to me that you have an outstanding set up. But it might help to check out a couple of little things that could be causing you problems with a new rifle with just a little time behind the trigger. Not every problem is solved by modifying equipment. Set-up consistency can eliminate a lot of shooter induced variations.

    Consider that the Oryx stock has little to no drop in the stock (like a recoil tube AR) so if you have the rifle mounted low on the bench or low when you are shooting prone, you may be hunched over.
    That would create real problems trying to get a consistent set up.
    And variations in your set up will move the POI around, even if you think you are aiming at exactly the same point.

    1) Moving in or out on the scope could be moving your POI up or down respectively. I have measured that about 1/8 inch change in eye relief can move your POI by 1/4 inch. It is that sensitive.

    2) Also, if you are not on the optical plane of the scope, you could be moving the POI to the right or left.
    (To avoid such problems, I check my position before each shot by slightly moving my head back from the scope eye piece until I see the black ring around the scope image.
    If the black ring is concentric, I know I am on the optical plane and just move back until the ring goes away making sure it stays concentric until it just disappears. Stopping when the black ring just disappears also eliminates moving in too far on the scope and helps with eliminating item the problem described in item 1)

    3) And lastly, if you are seeing the scope move off your POA after a shot, probably to the right, you have the butt of the stock too far out of the notch in you shoulder.
    The recoil is pushing your shoulder back and the barrel is moving to the right.
    Even a slight movement during recoil actually moves the POI even though the bullet takes only about 1 millisecond to go down the barrel.

    I hope this helps.
    I agree with all of the info you said about the scope, eye relief, and parallax. The scope is setup correctly for my eye. I have it mounted as far from the buttpad as possible so as when i get lined up, if i move my head rearwards at all, even a little bit, that black ring starts to show. So i do the the same. set the rifle up holding its self, look threw the scope not touching the rifle at all. make damn sure parallax is good. Then when getting ready to aim i move my head out of my comfortable position rearward slightly to see the black ring, move forward till the ring is gone (comfortable position) keeping a mental note to know that my cheek has not moved on the cheek rest. Then make my shot.

    Raising the rifle bipod legs when in prone was only more comfortable because the buttpad was where it should be. I could not hold as steady as the rest of me was not in a relaxed position. Lowering it back down with the addition of the adjustable butt pad adapter has made it 100% comfortable. Recoil pad is now where it should be with me completely relaxed and comfortable. This im sure will help. Also there is an odd thing with this trigger where the safety blade has a really stiff spring, more so than the trigger pull weight. Not sure how that is effecting things but its not as natural to me as my other two savage accu triggers and this is their "target" model.

    So for the time being i need to find a lighter spring for that safety blade, wait a lil longer for my anti-cant bubble level, and then actual comfortable weather so im not in such a hurry. I have a feeling with the new buttpad set up, and better weather ill improve on things. I fully agree trigger time is needed as i'm not used to this animal or 300 PRC. Today i shot my savage b22 22wmr and put a 5 shot group that was basically just one hole at 50 yards. But for some reason that trigger is simply better and it should not be. Its much more predictable. Predictable being the best word i can think of to describe it. Also there is 0 recoil so how its shouldered is far less important. or painful.

    The 300 PRC started getting painful due to where the recoil pad landed on my shoulder in the prone position. It was to low, so only the upper corner made contact.

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    Like I said, you obviously know what you are doing.
    Sounds like you don't need any coaching.

    I have nine Savage 110s and have 8 Varmint triggers and one Precision Target trigger (red blade).
    The 8 Varmint triggers are set at 2 lbs and the Precision Target trigger is set at just over 1 lb.
    All the safety blades simply move toward the trigger with almost no effort.
    I suspect something is binding up your safety blade, if you even notice having to move it.

    The only time I have ever noticed the safety blade was when I pressed it sideways instead of straight back.
    With the trigger set light, it locks up the trigger - (a safety feature protecting against the trigger being hit from the side).

  5. #5
    Team Savage nathantc's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by CFJunkie View Post
    Like I said, you obviously know what you are doing.
    Sounds like you don't need any coaching.

    I have nine Savage 110s and have 8 Varmint triggers and one Precision Target trigger (red blade).
    The 8 Varmint triggers are set at 2 lbs and the Precision Target trigger is set at just over 1 lb.
    All the safety blades simply move toward the trigger with almost no effort.
    I suspect something is binding up your safety blade, if you even notice having to move it.
    oh i don't know everything lol. constructive criticism is always welcome. This rifle im building to learn EXACTLY the things i clearly dont know well lol.
    As for the trigger it does not seem to be binding, could be though. With the spring removed, it moves freely. The spring itself seems to stiff. I 100% forgot to take it apart and bring the spring with me to the hardware store this morning to see if i can find some replacements to use, cut, or modify to get it where its near unnoticeable. It only needs just enough to support the weight of the blade to catch the sear. I've thought of going aftermarket but i plan to do more than sit in a controlled environment. so i like the safety of the design. The day i was shooting those groups i had it trip while closing the bolt. Thought i had it tight enough that it would not. Guess i was wrong or the adjustment moved after firing. I have it set as light as possible without (or so i thought) it doing that when closing the bolt hard.

  6. #6
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    With my varmint triggers, if they get much below 2 lbs or the adjustment nut gets loose (over 2000 rounds in my experience), they tend to get finicky and lock up if the bolt is closed hard or if I put even the slightest side pressure on the safety blade.
    I now put some lock-tite on the adjustment screw to keep it at 2 lbs. Haven't had any adjustments get loose since I started doing that.

    The Precision Target trigger (red blade) can be adjusted down to 6 oz. It came from the factory at 10 oz.
    But I found that if I shot that trigger at 10 oz. first, I would jerk the varmint triggers or if I shot the varmint triggers first, the precision trigger was just too light to shoot consistently.
    Turns out that 1.2 lbs is just about right on the precision trigger so I can shoot two different rifles during the same session and not notice the difference.

    I can imagine if, on any of my rifles, the blade was harder to pull than the trigger itself, I would have problems getting comfortable with it and probably couldn't be consistent.

  7. #7
    Team Savage nathantc's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by CFJunkie View Post

    I can imagine if, on any of my rifles, the blade was harder to pull than the trigger itself, I would have problems getting comfortable with it and probably couldn't be consistent.
    dry fire with the safety blade removed is so damn nice. I'm sure it will be ok once i get a lighter spring in there.

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