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Thread: Savage .223 1:7 rifling problems

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  1. #1
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dave Hoback View Post
    Strange indeed. Somehow the button for the rifling remained static for that first stretch. Curious to hear the shooting results.
    I hope to find a 12fv on sale again for a donor gun. If not I will buy the proper bolt head and and swap it onto my 243 and 450bm action

  2. #2
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    The button used for this process 'cuts' all the rifling with one pass. A gear is set up to rotate the button at the proper twist rate. Yours looks like the gear did not engage for the first several inches.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by charlie b View Post
    The button used for this process 'cuts' all the rifling with one pass. A gear is set up to rotate the button at the proper twist rate. Yours looks like the gear did not engage for the first several inches.
    Best of my knowledge the buttons have the helical angle formed into them to rotate, the machine granted I have not seen one does not spin the button. Buttons do not "cut" the rifling they are a form of cold forming (push the metal into the shape). Maybe savage uses a short button so the helical angle is not part of it and it does need a machine to twist it at the proper rate?

  4. #4
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    Yes, this is primarily what I’ve seen as well. But it’s impossible for a helical grooved button to make straight rifling! It’s not physically possible! So I’m at a loss on this one. Apparently though, the Savage Tech was as well...so go figure. I am quite curious on the outcome here though.

    BTW Frank, Charlie is aware that button rifling is not cutting the rifling in. I’ve read it many times like that, people will simply say “cut” with “” or ‘’ to denote it’s not ACTUALLY cut. I’m guilty of doing the same thing here at times. I get in one of our chats here, and assume everyone is on the level. Have to remind myself that we have new shooters coming in all the time. Always best in this type of situation, to explain the procedure as it is. The way you explained it is precisely what the button is doing. So thank you.

    On a side note with that, something which is overlooked....both Button & Cold Hammer Forged Rifling are, in essence, actually creating the rifling EXACTLY the same way. The rifling is being PRESSED(Forged) into the the steel. Funny how that little tidbit is overlooked by the crowd touting the MISTAKEN “benefits” of a CHF barrel. Sorry....total tangent & not for nothing, but oh well.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dave Hoback View Post
    Yes, this is primarily what I’ve seen as well. But it’s impossible for a helical grooved button to make straight rifling! It’s not physically possible! So I’m at a loss on this one. Apparently though, the Savage Tech was as well...so go figure. I am quite curious on the outcome here though.

    BTW Frank, Charlie is aware that button rifling is not cutting the rifling in. I’ve read it many times like that, people will simply say “cut” with “” or ‘’ to denote it’s not ACTUALLY cut. I’m guilty of doing the same thing here at times. I get in one of our chats here, and assume everyone is on the level. Have to remind myself that we have new shooters coming in all the time. Always best in this type of situation, to explain the procedure as it is. The way you explained it is precisely what the button is doing. So thank you.

    On a side note with that, something which is overlooked....both Button & Cold Hammer Forged Rifling are, in essence, actually creating the rifling EXACTLY the same way. The rifling is being PRESSED(Forged) into the the steel. Funny how that little tidbit is overlooked by the crowd touting the MISTAKEN “benefits” of a CHF barrel. Sorry....total tangent & not for nothing, but oh well.
    I don't know all that much about CHF so this is just my opinion. I think compressing the steel is better than expanding it strength wise on a moulular level. I don't how to put the physics into words but here at work when we need to make a strong drive shift for a 6000 ton stamping press we use forgings.

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    Yeah...people are too hung up on the word “Forging”. It’s been spun into some mythological being. Forging is a process of shaping via pressure. Steel Stampings are in fact a type of forging.

    If you research, you’ll find Button rifling & CHF are doing the same thing. The button isn’t “expanding” the steel. It’s still COMPRESSING the steel. Think about it... you don’t SEE the rifling on the outside of the barrel, right?

  7. #7
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    Very interesting and I have also never seen that.
    My only concern is, why was the barrel removed and put on ebay? Makes me wonder if it was replaced because of poor accuracy.
    The only thing I can think is not very good things when the bullet is going straight and picking up speed before suddenly slamming into the part of the rifling where it starts to turn. As opposed to a normal barrel where they start to spin as soon as it starts touching the rifling.
    I am a little worried about possible damage to the jacket when it suddenly starts to spin.
    Or I might be wrong and it shoot great. I am very interested in the results.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dave Hoback View Post
    Yeah...people are too hung up on the word “Forging”. It’s been spun into some mythological being. Forging is a process of shaping via pressure. Steel Stampings are in fact a type of forging.

    If you research, you’ll find Button rifling & CHF are doing the same thing. The button isn’t “expanding” the steel. It’s still COMPRESSING the steel. Think about it... you don’t SEE the rifling on the outside of the barrel, right?
    I see your point but in my mind sandwitching metal is better. Now if you supported the barrel OD tightly as you pull/push the button through I think they would be equal. I have to hard evidence to back up my claims however.

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