I would add pillars at the minimum. The rear pillar must be notched for the trigger/sear components. Bedding at the same time is a good way to go. It is so easy to do a decent job. Even with cheap JB weld.
I would add pillars at the minimum. The rear pillar must be notched for the trigger/sear components. Bedding at the same time is a good way to go. It is so easy to do a decent job. Even with cheap JB weld.
The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.
I agree Brian. Aluminum pillars man. Also, this is reloads..right? Well, remember you just changed something. Different stock is gonna have different harmonics. Maybe doesn’t like the charge or the powder you were running.
I'll be doing bedding this weekend on it, and I suppose I'll start load development again :)
Thanks!
-Brian
I called Boyd's to get their input on this as well and they suggested the following (in case anyone is interested):
1. Make sure the barrel is free-floated (it is)
2. Installing pillars isn't necessary (with a .243 Win)
3. Bedding the recoil lug should be the next step
4. Ensure that I'm torqueing to 25-35 in-lbs, with the front action screw being 3-4 in-lbs tighter than the rear (and torque the front receiver screw first)
I have a couple things to look at this weekend (including starting over with load development).
-Brian
Do they mean to torque the front one COMPLETELY and then the back one? I don't know if it is right or not but I always torque them in about three steps, ending up with the final torque on the front one before the back one. I torque the back one about 5 "# less than the back but I doubt if 1 or 2 "# would matter.
I torque the front action screw down completely first. Then torque the rear down last. Then I double check the front screw's torque one last time.
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