ROFLMAO
Yep. The engineer's creed. If it's broke it needs to be fixed. If it isn't broke, it needs to be improved.
ROFLMAO
Yep. The engineer's creed. If it's broke it needs to be fixed. If it isn't broke, it needs to be improved.
Originally Posted by charlie b
Haha! Yep!
The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.
My interest in the Elftmann Trigger, or any other Savage Trigger, is to acquire a trigger that is suitable for bench rest competition. I am not an engineer, but I am a Millwright (retired). Our job is to fix it, and if possible, improve it. Anyone competing in Light Gun and Heavy Gun with a Savage platform, is at a considerable disadvantage because of the trigger (or lack there of). We have to deal with the mechanical disadvantage, which translates to a mental disadvantage. There are so few of Us in the Brotherhood who compete, its nice to hear from those who do.
Oh I’m all about modifying, (even though I’ve been accused of having someone else making the things I post). But I like modifying stock components or making things from scratch. I don’t enjoy spending money, to then spend more time/money to change it. If I’m making a purchase, I research up/down, sideways and here & there until I find exactly what I want & know it will work correctly. Except with 1911 triggers..because that’s just the nature of building a 1911. (Every part needs fit with them.) This is why I haven’t purchased any of the aftermarket Savage triggers to this point. None have shown to me, to offer a great deal more performance than a properly worked factory trigger. I was quite hopeful of the Jard, but it soon showed the “kinks” in its armor. Although I’m confident I could work it into a decent performing trigger, it’s just not worth the $220 for the slight increase in performance I might get over my stock trigger. And to be honest, I do enjoy a Safe Action trigger like the Accutrigger. They offer 100% defense against accidental discharge. It simply cannot fire unless the trigger is pulled. Same reason I love Firing Pin Blocks (FPB) in pistols. I think more than a few people would be quite surprised with how pleasant my worked Accutriggers feel. THAT is the kind of modification I really enjoy. Taking either materials or something stock and modifying to perform within a very close margin to the best money can buy. I know many of us here do the same and understand how gratifying it is.
Despite those feelings of mine, I’m glad for anyone who is happy with their purchase. But the fact remains in this thread that one person was quite happy, (although they altered the original). And one person was, it seems, quite unhappy, resulting in the product being sent back for a look. I hope we here the outcome.
So here is the outcome.
I shipped the trigger back on my dime and they had it for over a week. When I inquired, they said they were waiting on "parts from Oxide". Yet, when I got it back Monday, it appears to be the same trigger I sent them with a note that they lubricated the detent and I should do the same. ( Parts were lose in bag, center screw had my Loctite on it, no Loctite on detent spring retaining screw, missing wrench's. IF they replaced anything, they did a good job of keeping it a secret. ) It was still somewhat "crunchy" sounding out of the bag. When installed, (no adjustment) it seemed to work "OK" to about 20 oz but is still noisy when cycled in non cocked position ( even after a little moly grease in the detent hole)..
So I AM an engineer. ( Mechanical /Systems with 33+ years experience of design, prototype and support in military weapon systems) and will say that the issue with the trigger shoe component is by design. Specifically, The shoe is 0.045" wider than the inside of the mod 12 trigger guard so it will not fit through (even if the trigger guard is removed and rotated) . Therefor , the shoe has to be installed/removed every time the action is removed /installed. There is NO way around it unless you leave the shoe off and just use the blade.
To further exacerbate things the shoe is intended to be clamped onto the blade via a small screw with a TINY (0.05") hex key arrangement. It takes some decent torque ( as in bending the wrench) to tighten the shoe and keep it from moving. The screw is clearly under designed as well. I feel it's just a matter of time before the screw head strips out and leaves the owner with having to cut the trigger blade out of an assembled rifle. If you wanted to use the shoe, the best alternative would be to file the trigger guard opening (at least on a Mod 12) . FWIW, the trigger does break pretty cleanly (with no crunch). BTW, It does have a rudimentary adjustment for sear engagement too but I haven't messed with it. After initial test, I changed the spring and now have a decently crisp 13 oz pull ( without shoe installed which is how I will run it)
Summary: For the $150+ invested, and the issues encountered, I would not buy another. However, it's better than the factory trigger as issued. Especially after a spring change. Maybe I'll replace it with another brand at some point but I'll try it awhile first.
https://www.elftactical.com/ELF-SAVA...gger_p_48.html
I am glad you made those observations. I probably would not have bought one simply because of the trigger shoe. Have never been a fan of one. I'd do as you have and just leave the shoe off.
What do you mean a rudimentary adjustment for the sear? The 2 adjustments I see on it are on the back, one for the trigger spring & one for the safety. Is there a third not shown? Can you expound please?
I have considered, and may yet, add a shim to the sear shelf, to reduce the height to about .014”. We have done this in the past, successfully, with older stock triggers. When done successfully, it actually works better than a rinky dink screw sticking up through the sear.
Yes. As for Me, the shoe contributes nothing. I have absolutely no use for it, and therefore, don’t use it. But since it is unnecessary and optional, it is no reason not to buy the trigger, if it can suit your purpose.
I have an Elftman trigger for my Axis II Precision, got light primer hits with it. Would not fire. Put the OEM trigger back in and it works. Was not happy with this so it the bag in the drawer it sits.
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