Nightmare 22-250 Barrel

[mnbogboy2]

Great advice from charlie b.
It truly might be a "curvature" issue, you may find acceptable headspace when it is high (12:00) by trying different bolt heads. If it however 180° off that is doubtful
That will leave deepening the chamber or the Burris Signature mounts. Having the windage right leaves the elevation ability to use its full travel. The Burris inserts can then get your zero leaving the most available within the scope.
If it were mine I would try the Burris first just to see if the barrel shoots.
Keep us posted, curious to see how it comes out.

[wbm]

I think the windage ended up being fairly accurate this time because the barrel was indexed differently on the "new" receiver....so that would indicate, to me anyway, that curvature is more of an issue. In other words, this time instead of being very low and very right it was very low only.
Lol.Did that make sense?

[celltech]

Where did you buy this barrel from? Pete's house of pry bars?

[mnbogboy2]

I think the windage ended up being fairly accurate this time because the barrel was indexed differently on the "new" receiver....so that would indicate, to me anyway, that curvature is more of an issue. In other words, this time instead of being very low and very right it was very low only.
Lol.Did that make sense?

Makes sense to me. One other possibility may be the possible loose threads end up, or the condition of the lug, nut & reciever. If you are using a factory stamped recoil lug sometimes the thickness varies quite a bit. Most often thicker towards the bottom sometimes several thousandths. But on the sides also.
Too bad there is no one magic cure.
My guess being it was way off on both is curvature. Did you get a chance to compare the thread "wiggle" at the end of the barrel? It still could be that and when tight it will point to the path of least resistance against the thread. It is also possible and sharpshooter can answer this better that the threads themselves are not true with the bore. No real fix for that except indexing and chamber work. Probably not worth it at that point for a factory barrel.
Hope you get it where it needs to be.

[wbm]

Where did you buy this barrel from?

Someone I trusted. Burn me once!

Hope you get it where it needs to be.

Nah. Tired of messing with it. Just going to write it off. I'll send it to you if you want to mess with it.

[Robinhood]

[celltech]

I was wondering who would post that video first.....

[mnbogboy2]

Bill,
Fighting myself with a take-off now...hits the center of the target but not as often as I like it...lol....havent found a load it likes. Not loading for 22-250 would be the reason for not taking you up on the offer.
These factory take offs are a crap shoot. Although most of them are pretty good. The 6.5 Creed axis barrel I bought from you a couple years back was exceptional and shot great right out of the starting gate. My grandson shot an eight pointer with it in Wisconsin last year.
If it were mine as a last resort I would shorten it and recrown. It may just pull it out of the worst part of the curvature. It could also make it worse!....

Robin & celltech,
Maybe a good wack will fix wbm's barrel...just got to know where to hold the "trademark" or end up with a broken bat.

[sharpshooter]

There is a fix......probably controversial, but it seems to work because they do it all the time at the factory. This is a detail that probably no one knows about, nor has been considered a viable fix even to the back yard gunsmith. The factory barrel threads can be on the small side just from production tolerance, along with receiver threads a little big, or a combination of stacked tolerance. A few of us here know what can happen when the thread fit is sloppy......the barrel will end up drooping with gravity when cinched up. I found this out by chucking up the receiver and checking runout at the end of the barrel. You would be shocked how much droop a sloppy fit will create, and on the other hand, you would be amazed how straight and consistent a proper fit is.

When I toured the plant back in 2005, I got to "build " my own rifle there.(Like that was a big deal to me.....) Anyway...after I installed the barrel, we turned around to a fixture with V blocks and an indicator. I asked, "What's this do?" The gal replied, "We're gonna check it for straightness." She laid the receiver in the V blocks, and rotated it with an indicator contacting the barrel about an inch from the muzzle. A full rotation moved the indicator needle .001". She went on to state that if it was more than .020", the barrel is "adjusted" to be closer. To demonstrate, the next barreled action was checked and adjusted with an arbor press. At this point I was totally confused, as I just witnessed a worker straighten a barrel as it came off the profiling lathe. " You mean to tell me, that after that guy just massaged that barrel straight, you're gonna bend it so it's straight with the action? Isn't that counter productive?" About that time, the lead man for barrel dept. jumped in and clarified things. He said, "No.....were not gonna bend the barrel, we're going to "slip the joint".
The barreled action was moved to the straightening fixture with the arbor press. There is a V block placed under the rear bridge, and one placed 4 inches ahead of the recoil lug. After it is rotated to find the high spot, the arbor press is used to press right on the thread joint. What this does is push the joint laterally, despite the tension on the nut. This is done until the muzzle is fairly concentric to the receiver, mostly to insure that the barrel sets straight in the stock.
The tighter the thread joint, the less lateral movement is encountered. A class 3 fit will insure that the barrel will draw up and center itself very consistently. The trouble with that is, although it was called out as a class 3 fit, it was hard to hold on old machinery of the time, so they found a cheap and dirty fix.