Do Headspace Gauge brands matter

[000Robert]

Funny. Not exactly sure what is “crude”. Never actually gave any advice. Simply was saying what I do. Used to use the ol’ scotch tape trick everyone knows...and ya know what? Ain’t never had a single problem with that method. But awhile back I was using feeler gages for different machining tricks and thought, “hmmm”. Went and checked, and last one I set up WON’T close with a .003” shim on the base of the “Go”. So it’s under .003” headspace. I could use a .002” shim and set it lower, but where it is quite alright.

I don’t have much in the way of “throw away money” see. I need to keep spending pretty light. Saving the cost of $30 on a “No Go” gauge may seem like nothing to some, but to me that $30 can be much better served in the form of a couple end mills or other machining tidbits.

So I fail to see what us “Crude” in that?

I agree with you. I am just starting to learn gunsmithing and need to save money when I can.

[justpassinthru]

I just changed the recoil lug on my 260 Rem. 110 using only a go gauge.
When putting brass fired in that rifle in my Model 7 Remington in 260 Rem, the bolt closes easily so I think it's OK. That's not the way I like to do things though so I now have a no go gauge for when my new Shilen arrives.
I wouldn't be afraid to use the shim method either, just didn't think of it.

[Dave Hoback]

I agree with you. I am just starting to learn gunsmithing and need to save money when I can.

Howdy & welcome to ya Robert. Here is a piece of advice I will give. “ make it your point to learn at your pace. If you are able to teach yourself, kudos”

I started light Gunsmithing work over 20 years ago. Building firearms for me came at the end of the Clinton AWB. This, after the ban expired in ‘04, was the “beginning” of the DIY firearms builders movement. Even though some like talking about building them before, heck even in the 80’s! Which is sheer nonsense.

For ever & ever, Gunsmithing has been mainly an “Old Boys Club”. Very similar in the world of Knifemaking, rather, knifesmithing. After centuries of being told how “other worldly” the knives & Guns made by these smiths are, well they just can’t help but believe the rhetoric themselves. Most of ‘em don’t like me because I openly release every secret I come across. I also run into hate which takes the form of “How dare this one armed cripple think he can do what WE do”!

My advice is learn on your own. NEVER pay someone to learn. It will be easy to find who to & NOT to listen to. Look for Anger. When a person “calls out” another, and you can “hear” the anger in there confrontation. Not someone I would want to from. Just pay attention. Quickly you'll see the trends.

[000Robert]

Howdy & welcome to ya Robert. Here is a piece of advice I will give. “ make it your point to learn at your pace. If you are able to teach yourself, kudos”

I started light Gunsmithing work over 20 years ago. Building firearms for me came at the end of the Clinton AWB. This after the ban expired was the “beginning” of the DIY firearms builders. Even though some like taking about building them before, heck even in the 80’s! Which is sheer nonsense.

For ever & ever, Gunsmithing has been mainly an “Old Boys Club”. Very similar in the world of Knifemaking, rather, knifesmithing. After centuries of being told how “other worldly” the knives & Guns made by them are, well they just can’t help but believe the rhetoric themselves. Most of em don’t like me because I openly release every secret I come across. I also run into hate in the means of “How dare this one armed cripple think he can do what WE do”!

My advice is learn on your own. NEVER pay someone to learn. It will be easy to find who not to listen to. Look for Anger. When a person “calls out” another, and you can “hear” the anger in there confrontation. Not someone I would want to from. Just pay attention. Quickly you see the trends.

Thanks, Dave! I hear you. I am not learning alone. I have been purchasing armorers courses from AGI to get a jumpstart on Gunsmithing. I wanted to start the professional gunsmithing course from AGI, but I cannot pay for it in total and they stopped the payment plans.
And I am also learning from experts on the forums!

[at4rxj]

High level summary - both would be good for beginners and for a cheap double check / insurance, but for an experienced gunsmith or precise / known tolerances a different method could be used. Is that fair?

[Ted_Feasel]

High level summary - both would be good for beginners and for a cheap double check / insurance, but for an experienced gunsmith or precise / known tolerances a different method could be used. Is that fair?

I think it's fair if I understand what your saying lol.. just for my clarity.. your saying the feeler gauge method is ok for non precision or just a ameture gunsmith not to concerned with precision but if you want precision then go with a matched set of go/no go?? If that's what your saying I would say that is a fair statement:) btw, not intending to be argumentative or condescending, honestly just wanting to know if I understood what you meant

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk

[oley55]

Mentally, I was just about "all in" on using a feeler gauge with a GO gauge to check for NO-GO until today, when I mic'ed my 30+ year old (no name) Made in the USA (and rust free) feeler gauges. The .002"=.0036", .003=.0052", .004=.004"!!!???!!! Having measured the .002 and .003, I was about convinced my cheapo Lyman 1" micrometer was having issues. That was until I measured the .004" and it was dead on. I guess the moral of this story is; "not all feeler gauges are created equal", USA made or otherwise.

So buying some high end feeler gauges to cut up to save buying a Forster NO-GO gauge for $28.50 doesn't seem quite so frugal to me now.

It would be interesting to know if +/- .002" is the acceptable standard for feeler gauges.

[Ted_Feasel]

Mentally, I was just about "all in" on using a feeler gauge with a GO gauge to check for NO-GO until today, when I mic'ed my 30+ year old (no name) Made in the USA (and rust free) feeler gauges. The .002"=.0036", .003=.0052", .004=.004"!!!???!!! Having measured the .002 and .003, I was about convinced my cheapo Lyman 1" micrometer was having issues. That was until I measured the .004" and it was dead on. I guess the moral of this story is; "not all feeler gauges are created equal", USA made or otherwise.

So buying some high end feeler gauges to cut up to save buying a Forster NO-GO gauge for $28.50 doesn't seem quite so frugal to me now.

It would be interesting to know if +/- .002" is the acceptable standard for feeler gauges.

I say this with no source to back it up but I would think feelers should be within .000X but as unsaid I really dont know.. I have some really nice sets my dad left me, I'll mic them and see what I get

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk

[mnbogboy2]

Mentally, I was just about "all in" on using a feeler gauge with a GO gauge to check for NO-GO until today, when I mic'ed my 30+ year old (no name) Made in the USA (and rust free) feeler gauges. The .002"=.0036", .003=.0052", .004=.004"!!!???!!! Having measured the .002 and .003, I was about convinced my cheapo Lyman 1" micrometer was having issues. That was until I measured the .004" and it was dead on. I guess the moral of this story is; "not all feeler gauges are created equal", USA made or otherwise.

So buying some high end feeler gauges to cut up to save buying a Forster NO-GO gauge for $28.50 doesn't seem quite so frugal to me now.

It would be interesting to know if +/- .002" is the acceptable standard for feeler gauges.

Maybe both tools are errant?
Buy the no-go and be done with it.
You don't need measuring tools at all other than the chamber gauges.
Here's one to ponder on I have a PTG go gauge that is laser etched 257 roberts ackley improved 40°. It is .018 shorter than it is supposed to be. Or the dies I've used for 15 years are .018 deep. After reaming to match the dies fired brass measures to print so the go-gauge was obviously marked wrong and is meant for something else.
Trust but verify!