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Thread: My 12FV bedding project

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  1. #1
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    You guys with mills make me jealous. Interesting take on the action/epoxy/pillar scheme. I have always pushed up the pillar until it contacted the action, but of course it never makes solid contact across its entire surface. I would have to think the compressive strength of epoxy is enough to provide a solid mount. I might try this next time I pillar something. Thanks!!!

  2. #2
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    Made a stuffing block from a chunk of 1" aluminum square. Rough milled it and epoxied it in the magazine well. After the pillars are glued in, I'll fill the mag well with epoxy, let it cure and then do the final bedding with the single shot adapter epoxied in the action.


  3. #3
    Team Savage GaCop's Avatar
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    Bravo! Excellent work.
    Vietnam Vet, Jun 66 - Dec 67

  4. #4
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    With the pillars epoxied in place, it was time to fill the mag well. Warmed up some Pro Bed in an old aluminum pot I used to etch cores in my bullet makin' days:



    Then spooned it in to a bit over the top of the block. The camera caught some weird reflection of the stock color that makes it look like wood shavings...strange.



    This is a single shot adapter that fits the factory cut out pretty well. It's 3D printed from black Delrin. Epoxied that in:



    The bottom of it matches the action profile pretty well but it's really rough textured. After it dries, I'll fill the seams and dress the area down smooth so it matches the action diameter.



    If you haven't tried Pro Bed yet, you should. Of all the stuff I've used over the decades, this is the best.


  5. #5
    Basic Member Robinhood's Avatar
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    Appreciate the effort and documentation. This will help others in the future.
    The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.

  6. #6
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    In the bedding:


  7. #7
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    With the action/stock bedding complete, it's on to bedding the scope bases. This is a simple thing you can do to insure maximum contact between the bases and receiver and make sure the bases are aligned longitudinally. Normally, I use the excellent Base Align, designed by the late Dan Hackett. But for this, I'll do it old school since few have this tool.



    I rummaged through my asst. of Davidson/Kelbly bases and came up with two that had the correct hole spacing:



    Today's victim was this hapless Savage :



    I rough up the base bottoms with a Dremel..a file or sand paper also works. Then, use a needle file to make sure the screws aren't too tight in their holes:



    Some mold release wax goes on the sides of the bases:



    And the receiver and in the screw holes:



    Some light oil in the screw recesses:



    And on the screws:



    Get the rings ready, make sure the rings will slide easily on the bases first:



    Mix the Pro Bed, JB Weld...whatever you wish to use:



    Insert the screws and butter up the bases:



    Snug the screws lightly, leaving some side-to-side wiggle room. Then gently slide the rings on and lay the lapping bar in the rings:



    Remove the ooze with a popsicle stick dipped in vinegar. Then wait:


  8. #8
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    After curing, pop the bases off the action. If you've got it right, here's what they should look like...100% contact between the underside of the bases and the receiver. Now, trim off the edges, lightly chamfer and clean out the screw holes.



    Straight and solid. :)


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