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Thread: .243 brass scarred and won't extract after firing??

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  1. #1
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ted_Feasel View Post
    If it's out of warranty and just a tiny burr, I'd take a very fine rat tail and knock it off or you could braze a T handel to a fired case, coat with embedded compound and hand turn the burr off

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    Non embedding ^^

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    I don't know what to say. Lapping compound on a brass lapping plug to remove a sharp steel bur.

    Dav123K read post number 6. It is tried and proven. Some want to help but have clearly never been here before.

    The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Robinhood View Post
    I don't know what to say. Lapping compound on a brass lapping plug to remove a sharp steel bur.

    Dav123K read post number 6. It is tried and proven. Some want to help but have clearly never been here before.

    Not lapping compound , non embedding compond.. it's harder than brass but softer than steel

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    Non embedding is technically lapping compound. It simply breaks down faster and does not get embedded into the harder metal. It does remove metal in ways that are not desirable. Things you learn lapping tapered couplings for high powered industrial machinery in the field and tapered plug valves. If you have never used that or a silicon carbide based compound like clover extensively you are probably not aware of the nuances that go along with lapping a tapered bore. We used 55 gallon drums of the non embedding stuff. All high spots are removed first then the lapping plug must blue to at least 90%. yada yada yada. Simply stated that is the wrong application for lapping compound.

    How many chambers have you filed and lapped with a brass case? I have witnessed the method I suggested work dozens of times. I have seen the lapping compound in the chamber done. Once. The result was a gunsmith rechambering. Anyway. I enjoy your post and I am not looking for an argument. but I vehemently disagree with your suggestions in this case. Chive on.
    The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Robinhood View Post
    Non embedding is technically lapping compound. It simply breaks down faster and does not get embedded into the harder metal. It does remove metal in ways that are not desirable. Things you learn lapping tapered couplings for high powered industrial machinery in the field and tapered plug valves. If you have never used that or a silicon carbide based compound like clover extensively you are probably not aware of the nuances that go along with lapping a tapered bore. We used 55 gallon drums of the non embedding stuff. All high spots are removed first then the lapping plug must blue to at least 90%. yada yada yada. Simply stated that is the wrong application for lapping compound.

    How many chambers have you filed and lapped with a brass case? I have witnessed the method I suggested work dozens of times. I have seen the lapping compound in the chamber done. Once. The result was a gunsmith rechambering. Anyway. I enjoy your post and I am not looking for an argument. but I vehemently disagree with your suggestions in this case. Chive on.
    I think I mentioned earlier that what you said was probably the best way to go about it and yes I have use very fine round files and compounds to knock of burrs and remove tooling Mark's etc with great results. If it's just a small burr and you carefully work only the burr you can likely remove that burr without damaging anything else. I technically would be considered a master machinist although I judge myself by what my fathers capabilities were and by those standards I do not consider myself a master. But put it this way, I have confidence in my skillsets that I would not be afraid to try your way or my way.. I would definitely agree the way you mentioned would probably be simplest but at this point it's all kind of a guessing game without seeing the actual problem.

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    Basic Member Robinhood's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ted_Feasel View Post
    I think I mentioned earlier that what you said was probably the best way to go about it and yes I have use very fine round files and compounds to knock of burrs and remove tooling Mark's etc with great results. If it's just a small burr and you carefully work only the burr you can likely remove that burr without damaging anything else. I technically would be considered a master machinist although I judge myself by what my fathers capabilities were and by those standards I do not consider myself a master. But put it this way, I have confidence in my skillsets that I would not be afraid to try your way or my way.. I would definitely agree the way you mentioned would probably be simplest but at this point it's all kind of a guessing game without seeing the actual problem.

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    My point was that the barrel is still in the action.

    I was not challenging what YOU could do.

    Machinist can have multiple skill sets differing from industry...I have lost most of mine via atrophy.
    The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Robinhood View Post
    My point was that the barrel is still in the action.

    I was not challenging what YOU could do.

    Machinist can have multiple skill sets differing from industry...I have lost most of mine via atrophy.
    I got you.. I was just throwing things out there he can try if he feels comfortable doing them.. I still agree you suggestion is the simplest and easiest given what we knew at the time.. suck though he found it's a actual depression in the chamber instead of a burr or something that could easily be fixed

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