Any chance you can remove the bolt and see well enough into the chamber to determine if there's a burr? I agree with some other comments, after you fire, your brass is expanding around whatever's in there and causing the sticky extraction. I'd think a gunsmith with a proper reamer could slowly and gently remove a burr and get you squared away pretty easily.Originally Posted by dave123k
Well I've tried 100 ways, I can't get a pic to upload. But, Thanks everyone. It is actually a little depression flaw in the chamber, causing the brass to swell in the shape of the little mark upon firing. It is less than 1 yr old, I will contact savage to see if they want to replace. Thanks again
Dang it, no pic still.. will it let you use imgur? I just recently learned to use it
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If it's out of warranty and just a tiny burr, I'd take a very fine rat tail and knock it off or you could braze a T handel to a fired case, coat with embedded compound and hand turn the burr off
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Non embedding ^^
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I don't know what to say. Lapping compound on a brass lapping plug to remove a sharp steel bur.
Dav123K read post number 6. It is tried and proven. Some want to help but have clearly never been here before.
The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.
Not lapping compound , non embedding compond.. it's harder than brass but softer than steelI don't know what to say. Lapping compound on a brass lapping plug to remove a sharp steel bur.
Dav123K read post number 6. It is tried and proven. Some want to help but have clearly never been here before.
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Non embedding is technically lapping compound. It simply breaks down faster and does not get embedded into the harder metal. It does remove metal in ways that are not desirable. Things you learn lapping tapered couplings for high powered industrial machinery in the field and tapered plug valves. If you have never used that or a silicon carbide based compound like clover extensively you are probably not aware of the nuances that go along with lapping a tapered bore. We used 55 gallon drums of the non embedding stuff. All high spots are removed first then the lapping plug must blue to at least 90%. yada yada yada. Simply stated that is the wrong application for lapping compound.
How many chambers have you filed and lapped with a brass case? I have witnessed the method I suggested work dozens of times. I have seen the lapping compound in the chamber done. Once. The result was a gunsmith rechambering. Anyway. I enjoy your post and I am not looking for an argument. but I vehemently disagree with your suggestions in this case. Chive on.
The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.
I think I mentioned earlier that what you said was probably the best way to go about it and yes I have use very fine round files and compounds to knock of burrs and remove tooling Mark's etc with great results. If it's just a small burr and you carefully work only the burr you can likely remove that burr without damaging anything else. I technically would be considered a master machinist although I judge myself by what my fathers capabilities were and by those standards I do not consider myself a master. But put it this way, I have confidence in my skillsets that I would not be afraid to try your way or my way.. I would definitely agree the way you mentioned would probably be simplest but at this point it's all kind of a guessing game without seeing the actual problem.
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