Ive run about 240 rounds total including the break in rounds (100) various loads numerous times, 10 rd groups. I can get some .3's/.4's then things get out their until I find whats loose. Loosening of the action screws but thats all been taken care of. I glass bedded and things looked much better and things went south again. Weird groups. I know when I can attribute the heat or the wind etc. cleaning requirements etc. Ive examined the bore and see no issues, crown is good. The front rest i use was a contributor once, things were loose, too hard of a front rest. Fixed it. It's a 1/9 twist barrel I use 69 gr and did no better no worse with 75's and 77's Varget powder, a couple of others. Always wiped the bore well after I changed powder.

All in all I'm stuck in a .5-.7 ball park and not liking it. Ive never had a rifle I couldn't dial in during the brake in or by 200 rounds for sure By dialed in i'm saying and consistent, predictable .5 and less. even a consistent .7 I can live with.

I noticed when I had the action and barrel off to glass bed it that the rear trigger guard screw was loose again I noticed when I was ready to put it back together again that there was no wood to hold the T/G rear screw no wood. When the trigger port was milled it was cut about half a screw width too deep rearward and there is nothing for the screw to grab hence it always loosen up.

Ive tried to build it up with filler and that didn't work. There isnt enough material to glue in an insert. One might say that since that screw doesn't hold the action and just keeps the rear of the guard up it shouldn't impact accuracy. My plan is to remove the trigger guard machine a bushing to support the rear action screw and shoot some groups with the trigger guard off.

This is about to wear out my last nerve. the scope isn't the issue either.

I have to make a few decisions. Can the rear T/G screw screw up harmonics if it isn't grabbing wood properly? I wish.