Same idea..but using Titanium & Tungsten Carbide. (Pics)

[Dave Hoback]

Looks really good, Dave! Unfortunately (for the purpose of this topic, anyway), my Savage has the cocking indicator that shows through the BAS.

Yes the Axis style. I guess that is pretty much standard on all new 110 series? I don’t have much play with those, but several I trust say they don’t suffer from the heavy bolt lift we know. Robin is fond of that style I believe. Right Robin?


Thank you my friends for the encouragement. I do enjoy posting here. Some negativity no matter what other forum, unfortunately. Seems some people can’t exist without attempting to cause pain & anguish. I posted the video of bolt operation on Calguns, and a stranger there argued basically how “unimpressive” it was. Which is fine. Everyone is entitled to their opinion. But he continued arguing that I should have made the lift kit like the Lampeth kit and use the penetrator from a 3006 AP round??? I became confused with the jibberish, and realized he was simply a bitter person content on making others bitter. Best off just not arguing.

[J.Baker]

Yes the Axis style. I guess that is pretty much standard on all new 110 series? I don’t have much play with those, but several I trust say they don’t suffer from the heavy bolt lift we know. Robin is fond of that style I believe. Right Robin?

I'm pretty sure Savage began using the cocking indicator-style firing pins on 110 series rifles in 2005 with the launch of the 14/114 Classic series. They are primarily used on bottom bolt release models as the "flag" on the top bolt release models acts somewhat as a cocking indicator.

[Chris3.Drums]

Thank you my friends for the encouragement. I do enjoy posting here. Some negativity no matter what other forum, unfortunately. Seems some people can’t exist without attempting to cause pain & anguish. I posted the video of bolt operation on Calguns, and a stranger there argued basically how “unimpressive” it was. Which is fine. Everyone is entitled to their opinion. But he continued arguing that I should have made the lift kit like the Lampeth kit and use the penetrator from a 3006 AP round??? I became confused with ya jibberish, and realized he was simply a bitter person content on making others bitter. Best off just not arguing.

Good idea. Best not to enter into an argument with an ignorant hater. They will drag you down to their level of stupidity and pummel you with their experience.

I watched your video and it was what you said it would be - showing the ease of movement after your lift kit was installed.

Question: will a bolt from an older Savage without the pass-through cocking indicator function SAFELY in a rifle that came originally with that type assuming all else is equal (.308 in a .308, center-feed, etc)?

[Dave Hoback]

You said it man. I’m getting VERY acquainted with the “Ignore Function” there. Maybe a Commiforni thing?? So many Libtards it makes EVERYONE nasty?

Hmm, I’ve never thought about what you are asking. I believe so. The headspace will need reset I’m sure. But not sure you would want to. Robin has extensive use with BOTH, and prefers the the style firing pin/spring assy. with the indicator bolt. I would ask him about it’s “trick”.

Jim, or Robin should know this better than me.

[J.Baker]

One thing you have to keep in mind when fiddling with the firing pin is total mass (weight) of the FP and energy provided by the spring. Where a lot of guys make mistakes is thinking they can somehow decrease the lock time by going to a lighter FP or spring without taking mass and energy into consideration. This usually ends up in ignition troubles with light primer strikes. Couldn't begin to count the number of folks who have showed up here over the years with ignition issues after installing one of Tubb's SpeedLock Kits when he used to offer them for Savage's.

As much as Savage gets wrong, one thing they did get right was the FP spring rate. The problem is their FP springs can vary by as much as 2-lbs. JeepsAndGuns noted earlier in the other thread that he thought Fred replaced the spring on his rifle when he T&T'd it, but it's still the factory spring. What Fred does is measure the initial rate, and if it's higher than it should be he essentially takes the O.D. down until it measures the spec he wants it to (pounds per one inch of compression). That's why the spring wire looks flat rather than round.

As for Chris's question, yes it would perform normally. When the FP with cocking indicator first came out a lot of guys ordered a replacement solid BAS and old-style FP assembly to replace the new style simply because they didn't like it.

[JeepsAndGuns]

JeepsAndGuns noted earlier in the other thread that he thought Fred replaced the spring on his rifle when he T&T'd it, but it's still the factory spring. What Fred does is measure the initial rate, and if it's higher than it should be he essentially takes the O.D. down until it measures the spec he wants it to (pounds per one inch of compression). That's why the spring wire looks flat rather than round.

I was not aware of this. No one has ever explained it. I just knew it looked different and assumed it was a new spring, had no idea it was the original one that was modded. Good to know.

[Robinhood]

As much as Savage gets wrong, one thing they did get right was the FP spring rate. The problem is their FP springs can vary by as much as 2-lbs. JeepsAndGuns noted earlier in the other thread that he thought Fred replaced the spring on his rifle when he T&T'd it, but it's still the factory spring. What Fred does is measure the initial rate, and if it's higher than it should be he essentially takes the O.D. down until it measures the spec he wants it to (pounds per one inch of compression). That's why the spring wire looks flat rather than round.

I never included that information during discussion because I thought that was a protected secret. This is primarily why the lift on the ones I have worked on is so light. I read that some guys believe that the savage firing pin is over cocked. It is not. It may be over sprung though. The first one I tried to grind I went overboard. I use a belt sander now with a fixture to keep it uniform. I also make the cocking piece so there is no pin tilt. I got the idea from the cocking piece with the indicator but Fred has a mod to fix that also.

[txrob5150]

all i can say as someone new to these boards it is impressive the knowledge on here. thank you guys for being involved and posting so much info.

One day, I hope i get to the point where I actually understand it all......