Appreciate the encouragement Robin. Thank you.
NOTE: This is first one is now spoken for, but I’m making more. One thing to note..if someone wants the FULL kit, I will first need their BAS to modify/install the Tungsten rod. Can use just the Titanium/BB piece, but as I said, the point of this was to have two surfaces unable to “scratch” (drag) against one another.
And once more...I’m not, nor will I BE selling these. I don’t do that.
That is super slick and clearly “what right looks like”!
Looks like you shortened the threads on the BAS. Did you account for the lift kit's stacked height?
The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.
I did, but actually did that that at the beginning of the build. Using the DIY 38spl case head lift kit. Works with this as well.
Im looking for more Bolt Screws, but they are out of stock everywhere! Might need to grab a 1/20-28 thread Die & start making my own screws. Could make them from Titanium. That’d be kinda cool.
I had a similar experience when I made mine out of brass rod and a tiny ball bearing.
For the time spent making them (I made two, for the two rifles I had at the time), there was no way you could make them and be able to sell them and make any money. If you did make them, you would be pretty much doing it out of the goodness of your own heart.
I need to make a couple more. I have since acquired another rifle and will possibly be getting another one. However my lathe is packed up in storage right now because I am working on moving in the next couple months.
I do think the idea of the insert is a interesting one. Have you done any before and after measurements of the effort to lift the bolt compared to the 38spl case?
I agree! But I don’t do any of this for money. I have been blessed by The Lord with knowledge & skillset despite being disabled & only one arm to use. I praise His name by passing on some of the benefit to others. And I hope, in turn they pass it along in some way afforded to them, in the future. Was the same when I offered doing trigger jobs for free. Although the powers that be decided against it. I’m sure wheels are already turning to delete this as well. See, those who MAKE MONEY doing this stuff, DON’t like me too much. But as of now, the ones I am making are now spoken for. I’ll probably do more in the future, but for now, I’m out of material.
No, no tests. The tests have been done by others. The single BB in the middle offers the least resistance. And physics dictates that the hardest surfaces offer the least friction against one another. We all know what that Tungsten Carbide is some HARD stuff! And the Si3N4 BB is even harder!
Looks good Dave!
One caveat for those not already in the know - If installing one of these the BAS needs to be shortened accordingly to accommodate the length of the titanium piece holding the detent ball.
"Life' is tough. It's even tougher if you're stupid." ~ John Wayne
“Under certain circumstances, urgent circumstances, desperate circumstances, profanity provides a relief denied even to prayer.” —Mark Twain
Fred put up some numbers in the link below from testing he's done with the .38Spl case mod. Basically it's good for roughly a 2-lb reduction in lift effort on average.Originally Posted by JeepsAndGuns
https://www.savageshooters.com/conte...Bolt-Lift-Kits
"Life' is tough. It's even tougher if you're stupid." ~ John Wayne
“Under certain circumstances, urgent circumstances, desperate circumstances, profanity provides a relief denied even to prayer.” —Mark Twain
Nice work again Dave. You are an inspiration to offset some of the negativity we see on here at times. God bless you.
I have seen that and it is a good read. However I meant specifically comparing the OP's tungsten insert and Silicone Nitride ball bearing to the 38spl and regular ball bearing. I was just curious if there was a noticeable difference going from the 38spl case and the OP's hard metal version.
I have two bolt screws I just found in my junk drawer collecting dust. They’re yours. Where do you want them sent?
What I like about that style is how the cocking pin is more supported (without the huge chamfer on either side that causes the pin to til). You can also do like I have done and machine off the cocking indicator from the end of the cocking piece and put a pointed set screw in it like the Nate Lambeth kit. There is some machine work but it works great.
Point of interest, I have never done this to the axis style firing pin.
The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.
Posting Permissions
Reply With Quote
Bookmarks