Reply With QuoteSort of has to be one or the other. Is it a bull barrel or a sporter barrel?heavy bull sporter barrel
Personally I would have put the x-caliber 6.5x55 barrel on one of your other actions. A lot less expensive than the Kevin Rayhill treatment.
Accuracy frustration - Help me make sure I'm taking the right approach
This has been a long term project. A number of years ago I purchased a Stevens 200 LA 270 Win with the intent of re-barreling to 257 Roberts. I never fired a round through the original 270 barrel.
- The first barrel I put on it was an Adams and Bennett 257 Rob. It shot ok averaging 1 MOA. Didn't expect much better.
- I stiffened and skim bedded the factory Tupperware stock and used it.
- A few years later, in search of better accuracy, I switched to a Wilson 257 Rob barrel, from Ragged Hole Barrels 1:10 twist, light varmint contour. It shot a little better but still and averaged just under 1 MOA which is not as good as some of my factory Savages.
- I replaced the Tupperware stock with a Hogue full bed stock and free floated the barrel.
- Next decided to get in on the 6.5mm craze and purchased a X-caliber 6.5X55, 5R, 1:8 twist heavy bull sporter barrel and installed it, still no improvement, it still averages around 1 MOA.
- I've tried numerous bullet/ powder combinations to no avail.
- I've tried 3 different scopes that shoot well on other rifles. The current scope is a Sightron SIII 8-32-56mm.
- Scope base was Leupold with front dovetail, replaced with EWG 20 MOA and it is confirmed tight.
- Current rings are Burris Signature Zee but I have tried other rings that were on the other scopes.
- The barrel nut was replaced with Sin Arms.
- Recoil lug was replaced with True Precision.
- I've tried varying the action screw torque
- It has a Rifle Basix Sav 2 trigger adjusted to 16 oz
After all this it still shoots about 1 MOA! I have 2 other Savages on which I installed aftermarket barrels/stocks that shoot bug holes and I have 2 factory stock Savages that shoot <.5 MOA.
I finally have come to the conclusion that the Stevens action is the problem so I shipped the whole rifle excluding scope off the Kevin Rayhill at Stockade to time/true the action work his accuracy magic.
Am I missing anything? Any suggestions?
Sort of has to be one or the other. Is it a bull barrel or a sporter barrel?heavy bull sporter barrel
Personally I would have put the x-caliber 6.5x55 barrel on one of your other actions. A lot less expensive than the Kevin Rayhill treatment.
Heavy Bull Sporter is X-Caliber's terminology not mine. Don't know why they call it that. Here are the dimensions from their website. "CONTOUR 7 - HEAVY BULL SPORTER 1.220 2.75 1.000 6 .750"
Since you shoot your other two Savages under 0.5 inches, it can't be the nut behind the trigger causing the inaccuracy.
You changed the cheap Stevens stock to a aluminum bedded Hogue with a free floated barrel - but you didn't say if the stock really fits you - I assume it does. (I have had problems with stocks that are too short for my long arms and greatly improved accuracy by changing to stocks with adjustable pull lengths. That said, I have several Hogue stocks and they seem to fit me OK.)
A good trigger set a 1 lb. should be conducive to accurate results.You have tried three different caliber barrels with the same action and stock and have achieved similar results.
I wouldn't have thought the action could cause that kind of inaccuracy, but it doesn't leave many other possibilities since you changed everything else.
Let us know how the tuning at Stockade comes out.
Will do, I hope Kevin can fix it. Can't imagine I got 3 bad barrels but maybe so. It going to be the most expensive Stevens 200 everThe stock fits me well.
What brass are you using? How many times fired before annealing?
Is there a flaw in the action bed. Can you take a .0015 feeler gauge and slip it between the stock and the action behind the recoil lug. I have seen several aftermarket Lugs that are too long?
The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.
I'm using 6.5X55 Hornady brass that I've never annealed. I generally neck size with a Lee Collet die but the last sizing was full length with Hornady Match die. I epoxy bedded the action and the bottom of the action is fully supported by bedding compound, there is no gap between the stock and the action.
The 257 Rob brass were Nosler and had been annealed after a couple of firings.
OK, so you did bed it with the current recoil lug..
The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.
Correct
Found a little stinker once. Shaw barreled 25-06, cant remember if it was stevens or savage now. The front action screw was just long enough to catch the bolt head but not quite long enough to "feel" any noticeable resistance. Obviously it was lifting the case at the rear. Shot like yours 1-2". Tried every thing you tried. Found it with a sharpie filed a thread off and shot 3/4 after that. I check everyone now.
That is a good one Bogboy. I cut all my own stainless screws to length from longer screws. I am very careful about the length.
I had a set of Hornady Creedmore dies. The bullet run out was about .020 to 030". Tried a Redding micrometer die for 260 rem. Less than .003. Groups tightened up.
The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.
In another forum I found an issue with the bolt head having a loose fit and excessive Wobble. I replaced bolt head, baffle, retaining pin and bolt body and closed the groups up. Seemd like wear of the bolt retaining pin, bolt body wear of the retaining pin hole, or the bolt head bolt retaing pin hole. I don't have access to detailed dimension data or gauges/mikes to determine the issue but my action helped cure the problem. lead to the solution by swapping out the bolt with a bolt assembly from another 110( with due regard for headspace) Good luck.
Good job trouble shooting that problem Bogboy, I'll do the same when I get my rifle back from Stockade.Originally Posted by mnbogboy2
That very well could be the problem. My hopes are, if that's an issue, Stockage will diagnose and repair it.
Posting Permissions
Bookmarks