Yep. I’ve used oversized pins made from drill rod. Only way I could get my trigger to a consistent 4 ounce without slam firing. In the case of my action the hole was just the right size for a 9/64” rod. Made a good improvement.
Have any of you tried to take the slop out of the factory sear on the old Savage triggers? Or just tried to tighten everything?
Every time I look at the sear and it's punched holes and non-machined pin, I think there must be a better way.
Bill
Yep. I’ve used oversized pins made from drill rod. Only way I could get my trigger to a consistent 4 ounce without slam firing. In the case of my action the hole was just the right size for a 9/64” rod. Made a good improvement.
Which factory trigger did you start with? And, what else did you do to it?
Bill
shim the gap between the hanger and the trigger.
Here is an article that I did on one of my earlier efforts. I will have to get the work around on the photos...if they still exist.
http://www.savageshooters.com/showth...hlight=trigger
I wasn’t using a factory trigger but rather a Sav-II but it still uses a factory sear and that’s where part of my issue was along with the crude finish of the rifle basix trigger. I could do the same on my old 3 screws or accutriggers but haven’t had a need to on those setups yet. They aren’t as big of a P.O.S. as the Sav-II but also don’t go near as light so it’s a trade off I had to make for my BR setup.
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