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Thread: Trying to keep my old model 5 running...

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  1. #1
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    Apr 2018
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    12
    Well... I think I figured it out on my own. I knocked the pin out on the front of the bolt. Out popped the firing pin and a small cylindrical piece that was flat on the striker side and peened a lot on the firing pin side that would have been between the firing pin and striker. I flipped it around so the flat side would be on the firing pin side and the peened side on the striker side and it looked like the firing pin presented probably twice as far. I figured I could just do that and I'd be fine (and probably still would be).

    But... I went back to the schematic on numrich as I though it was some little extension piece... and it looks like my firing pin is actually broken into 2 pieces.

    https://drive.google.com/open?id=1_HC59M8CMvUMryzOyOxvPpl_dxjhrIHt

    So! I'll be ordering a new firing pin and the tube magazine follower spring as I was able to get it taken apart w/o breaking the old one as well. Fingers crossed! These 2 things should correct the poor loading when the tube is near empty and hopefully make it fire 100% reliably. Then I can shore up the trigger to get it tight side to side... maybe smooth it ever so slightly and keep it running.

  2. #2
    New Member
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    Apr 2018
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    12
    Well, I got the new magazine spring in and managed to only fling it across the room once. The spring that was sent was roughly 2x the length of the old one... and it wasn't just because the old one was compressed. Way more coils. I used about 2/3-3/4 and it is very tight now.

    As to the firing pin, it was installed w/o any issue. It now presents about as far out as he bolt face. Cost was about $20 plus shipping. The firing pin was a new production that was about $15. The long magazine spring was about $5.

  3. #3
    New Member
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    Apr 2018
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    12
    Gun fires reliably now.

    One thing I did notice that that, despite the new spring in the magazine tube... I still couldn't get rounds to load relaibly. Watching the gun operate for awhile, I noted that the lifter just wasn't resetting far enough back to allow the next round to clear it and 'engage' to be on deck to go in the chamber next. The spot on the bolt where the lifter engages showed no sign of wear. Really... I didn't notice much... other than a but of a polish on the lifter itself and noting else seemed to be misaligned. I had noticed over my childhood the gun requiring a firm chambering moreso to allow the next round to load properly. I ended up pulling it out and working on the part of the lifter where the bolt engages it gently with a hammer while it lay flat on my vice to get that portion to elongate slightly. I probably will go back and do a little more as you still can't be real gentle with chambering a round without the next round not loading... but with a deliberate bolt close, the rounds will load now. New lifters aren't available.. but a used one can be purchased and I may do so for the fun of it the next time I have to pay for shipping on another item. Perhaps a new one might have a little less wear and engage properly.

    It's been interesting to say the least... and the rifle is pretty much functional once again.

    My left my e-mail address in my profile. I doubt I'll frequent the website, but if you e-mail me with something about a Savage .22 in the subject, I'll be happy to respond with what little I learned. As the thread has been pretty one sided since I started back, I do see it had some views and I'd wanted to pass along my experience. I did see a youtube video of someone discussing issues with one of these rifles... saying they'd torn down the bolt but provided no information concerning it, despite a lot of requests in the comments section. Parts can still be had and if you gun isn't firing reliably... checking to see is the firing pin is broken might not be a bad idea as mine sheared right at one of the segments.

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