Stock and Bottom Metal Upgrade for Model 16 LWH

[Apollo117]

Hi folks, I've got a Model 16 LWH that I would like to upgrade the stock and bottom metal on. I'm trying to keep the rifle light, but rugged.

I'm not a fan of the original synthetic stock. It does have some flex, but that's not why I don't like it. I would like to bed this action and I doubt the factory stock will handle bedding well. I see two ways of replacing the stock while keeping the gun light. First is to buy a model 11 LWH stock from the Classifieds or eBay. Second is to buy one of the lighter options from Stockade. Either option should be relatively light and allow me to bed the action. Both of these options should allow me to upgrade the barrel to a slightly larger than factory barrel in the future.

I mentioned upgrading the bottom metal. The factory trigger guard is plastic and bottom bolt release. Even though there's a weight penalty, I'd much rather have the steel trigger guard. If I replace the stock with a model 11 LWH I can use the same DBM pieces and upgrade the trigger guard. If I go with Stockade, I'd prefer to convert to blind magazine. What parts would I need to convert from center feed DBM to blind magazine?

Am I on the right page? Anything I need to be aware of?

Thanks.

[Robinhood]

Remove the hardware from the magazine box and insert it in the stock magwell.

[jpdown]

If you want to keep it light, you can bed the action, recoil lug and the first stock well in front of the recoil lug using your current the factory synthetic stock. I would replace the plastic trigger guard with a metal bottom bolt release trigger guard. IMO, the cheap plastic TG is crap and will flex or crack under the rear action screw over time. I've done this with a couple of Savage 16 LWH rifles and got consistent sub 1" MOA 3-shot groups with hand loads. It's difficult to find a Savage LWH walnut stock. If you do find one, you will need the synthetic DBM frame assembly (surround) to use your current Axis-style magazine in the LWH walnut stock. The Savage plastic DBM frame assembly and bottom cap are several ounces lighter than the metal DBM frame assembly, but work well with the metal TG. The Stockade Hunter is an excellent light-weight (28-30 oz) stock, but you're looking at a long weight time. I've never priced a Savage 11 LWH walnut stock direct from Savage Arms. But you might call and ask when you order a metal BBR trigger guard.

The picture shows my Savage 16 LWH 6.5 Creedmoor barreled action in a bedded LWH walnut stock that was painted with tan Duracoat to seal the wood and black Krylon webbing paint to add texture for improve grip when wet. It has a metal SS trigger guard and plastic DBM frame assembly with bottom cap. The weight is 7 lbs. with the Leupold VX-3 3.5-10x40mm CDS scope, Burris Signature Zee rings and steel Weaver Grand Slam 2-piece bases.

[Apollo117]

If you want to keep it light, you can bed the action, recoil lug and the first stock well in front of the recoil lug using your current the factory synthetic stock. I would replace the plastic trigger guard with a metal bottom bolt release trigger guard. IMO, the cheap plastic TG is crap and will flex or crack under the rear action screw over time. I've done this with a couple of Savage 16 LWH rifles and got consistent sub 1" MOA 3-shot groups with hand loads. It's difficult to find a Savage LWH walnut stock. If you do find one, you will need the synthetic DBM frame assembly (surround) to use your current Axis-style magazine in the LWH walnut stock. The Savage plastic DBM frame assembly and bottom cap are several ounces lighter than the metal DBM frame assembly, but work well with the metal TG. The Stockade Hunter is an excellent light-weight (28-30 oz) stock, but you're looking at a long weight time. I've never priced a Savage 11 LWH walnut stock direct from Savage Arms. But you might call and ask when you order a metal BBR trigger guard.

The picture shows my Savage 16 LWH 6.5 Creedmoor barreled action in a bedded LWH walnut stock that was painted with tan Duracoat to seal the wood and black Krylon webbing paint to add texture for improve grip when wet. It has a metal SS trigger guard and plastic DBM frame assembly with bottom cap. The weight is 7 lbs. with the Leupold VX-3 3.5-10x40mm CDS scope, Burris Signature Zee rings and steel Weaver Grand Slam 2-piece bases.

Thanks for the info and advice JP. I'm definitely going to replace the trigger guard. I'll mention the walnut stock when I order.

I think I'll try bedding the factory synthetic stock first. If it doesn't work then it will still be good practice and I can upgrade to the walnut or Stockade like I was planning.

I had my old man send me a picture of the bottom metal on his model 11. I see what you mean about the DBM on the model 11 vs the model 16. If I do pursue the walnut stock I'll have to check if it comes with the bottom metal or order the correct pieces from Savage.

Thanks again JP.

[Apollo117]

Remove the hardware from the magazine box and insert it in the stock magwell.

I assume you mean remove the plastic base plate? I think I've read somewhere that I may need a magazine spring clip to hold the spring in place on a blind magazine. Is the clip unnecessary?

[jpdown]

If the blind mag well is oversized depending on stock, the you need something to keep the follower spring from pushing the magazine out of place and up against the action/bolt body.

I don't use the L-clip in a blind magazine stock.

I put 4 small balls of plumber's epoxy putty in the corners of the blind magazine well, apply release agent to metal magazine box and position it in the blind magazine well. Let set for 15 minutes, remove magazine box and trim excess putty before it hardens completely.

[Apollo117]

If the blind mag well is oversized depending on stock, the you need something to keep the follower spring from pushing the magazine out of place and up against the action/bolt body.

I don't use the L-clip in a blind magazine stock.

I put 4 small balls of plumber's epoxy putty in the corners of the blind magazine well, apply release agent to metal magazine box and position it in the blind magazine well. Let set for 15 minutes, remove magazine box and trim excess putty before it hardens completely.

Very good idea to keep the magazine from moving. I'm guessing I would not want any of the epoxy to run under the edge of the magazine? Just around the exterior of the base. I think I understand. I can always remove the excess if it gets under the magazine and in the path of the base of the spring.