Boyds pro varmit?????

[SageRat Shooter]

Here's my 12FV fitted with a 28" Bartlein barrel and bedded to a Pro Varmint stock. I use if for F-Open competition so I added a Delrin sled to the forearm to match my front rest and a Delrin wedge to the foot of the stock to change the angle so that it matches my rear bag.

I filled the magazine well and forearm void with lead shot to increase the weight. I like this stock a LOT more than my McMillan which costs 5 times as much.

The laminate is "Coyote" and since I like to name my rifles, I need to decide between "Wyle" or "Wile E". Should I use just the first name, or the first name and middle initial?

Mozella,

Where do I get one of those Derlin Wedge rear bag riders? That's exactly what I've been looking for to put on mine.... I also have the Coyote PV nice choice!! And my vote is "Wyle"...

[Mozella]

Mozella,

Where do I get one of those Derlin Wedge rear bag riders? That's exactly what I've been looking for to put on mine.... I also have the Coyote PV nice choice!! And my vote is "Wyle"...

You make it.

Go on Ebay and buy a piece (I bought a square foot) of high density plastic of a suitable thickness. I used 5/8" to match the slot in my bag. Make a template of the right size and shape out of paper and glue it on the plastic. You might like the bottom edge of the stock parallel to the fore-stock, but I prefer a bit of an angle so that by sliding the rear bag forward and aft I can adjust the aim. Suit yourself and consider cutting out some cardboard prototypes if you wish so you can test the exact angle you find most suitable.

You can also make the wedge thicker or thinner to give you the kind of elevation you like when shooting from a bench or prone, especially if your rear bag is a little bit lower than you prefer.

Cut the wedge out with a band saw or jitter saw, or a hand saw if necessary.

Sand the edges smooth. I used a small block plane too and I put a bit of taper on the lower edge. Then drill three mounting holes starting with a 1/4" Forstner bit to make a counter sunk hole. Then drill for the mounting screws. Tape the wedge into position and drill pilot holes in the stock. Screw the wedge in place. Or, if you use flat head screws, simply counter sink the plastic so that the heads are flush or a bit more.

I knocked the lower corners off and rounded them a little bit with my low angle block plane. I also made my wedge a bit longer than the lower stock edge so that it is cantilevered out about an inch on the forward edge.