I have a brand new rifle in 6.5 creedmoor.
I'm shooting a mild hand load of 39 grains of H4350. This charge is right in the middle of the manufactures recommended max and min charge. So I don't believe it's an over pressure issue.
When I shoot a round, the bolt lifts easy but hard as can be to pull the bolt to the rear and eject the round. Once the round is ejected there is a scratch or gouge near the shoulder of the spent brass and sometimes a line or scratch running down the brass.
Is is this a chamber that has an edge that wasn't polished or am I not resizing the brass correctly?
Im using a Redding full length resizing die.
Only 20 rounds total through this rifle and every spent round is difficult. I can eject a round that hasn't been fired. No issues there.
Also Savage sent me a 4 round magazine that will not chamber a round from the magazine. It causes a double feed every time.
Any advice would be appreciated!
Sounds like you need to do a search for Primary Extraction. Lots of stuff on it in here. Short version is your bolt is not pulling back on the brass as you lift it therefore not breaking it loose from the chamber walls.
Just noticed the scratch comment. could be a burr but i would say most likely a combination.
"And you shall know the truth, and the truth shall make you free.” John 8:32 (New King James Version)
The chamber is fine, the scratch is caused by the sharp edge on the upper right lug abutment. This is common for Creedmoors because the diameter of the shoulder is .463" after it is fired, and the width of the raceway is only .450". Once the case is extracted past the chamber mouth, the ejector tips the case to the right, and it wedges in the raceway and the sharp edge of the lug abutment digs into the case, causing drag and a scratch.
The fix is knocking the sharp edge off the lug abutment.
"As long as there's lead in the air....there's still hope.."
Thanks for the reply sharpshooter. You state "once the case is extracted" this leads me to believe the round gets stuck AFTER I began pulling the bolt. When actually the bolt is seized immediately with no play until I jolt the bolt to the rear.Originally Posted by sharpshooter
Research primary extraction. See if you have any. You could also use a feeler gauge or the like and place it in the cam bearing surface and cycle the bolt to see if that changes things. Still a potential burr in the chamber area.
Two different issues. The one the Sharpshooter responded to was the reason for the marks on the brass. The other issue was Primary Extraction if you actually have that. If the bolt does not get pulled rearward on opening by the rear cam, Rusty is correct but the feeler gauge should actually go between the rear of the action and the front of the rear baffle.
The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.
Try to specifically clean the chamber (for the resistance to extract)
I had same issue with my Savage barrels.
After I got the Carbon cleaner 2000 no more problems, no repeat with the replacement barrels.
A good way to clean a chamber and make sure it's smooth is to use a bore mop from a larger caliber that fits the chamber fairly snug. I use a 50 cal bore mop for my .308 and 6.5 Creedmoor. Find section of metal cleaning rod and chuck it in a drill with the bore mop on the end. Some Flitz metal polish on the bore mop and work spinning bore mop into chamber, moving back and forth. I use a nice slow speed and work the mop back and forth for a minute or so. With another mop or a piece of T-Shirt wrapped around a chamber brush I clean out the polish and check with my bore-cam. I also do the same for the neck ares of the chamber only use a patch around a next up caliber brush. The Flitz cleans out carbon from the neck area very nicely.
I had the chamber reamed and polished by Savage. They made an adjustment to the magazine box and it's shooting about .5 MOA at 200 yds with Nosler Partitions with no issues.
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