Has anyone else had a specific brand cause the bolt to stick. These cases are annealed so I;m wondering if they are a little softer than Remington or Winchester and if that could cause the problem. Accuracy wise it's fine, MOA with 2 in the same hole and since I was shooting from a bi-pod I could be the reason they weren't all 3 in the hole.
Specifics:
Shoots other ammo fine.
No pressure signs.
I know the chamber is a little tighter than necessary (hard to close on one piece of tape).
If you are set to a short headspace then yes it could cause different brands or even lots of brass to be problematic. I have run some really tight with Norma or Lapua brass that I am sure would have been real issues if I had tried to use brass with larger tolerances.
I think this will fix my sticky bolt. Now I just need ti drill,Tap, Bead blast and color it. Hopefully the horror stories I've read about threading Axis bolt handles are overstated. And anyone noticing the horrid tool marks I was running a dull carbide tool way too slow.
I have had the best success welding drill rod on the handle. Several people over the years have complained about monarch ammo.
The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.
How do you weld it? Stick, mig or tig?
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I tried to thread my bolt handle today and well, It sucked. I started out by milling the flats with an end mill, rounded within tolerance with a flat file and started threading. long story short, I cut threads down 1/2" down and then under low pressure the **** thing broke off, The thing was hollow, WTH? I ended up rounding off what was left and breaking out the JB-Weld, Doesn't look bad but if I would have tried this from the start it would have been a 15 minute job instead of 2 hours.
I tig it. For the 10/110 I thread. The Axis needs acouple of bends to get it right.
The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.
The one I'm not setup for, I figured. I may try to stick weld one. What alloy do you use for Pot Metal to drill stock. I'm assuming the stock is soft when you weld?
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