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Thread: Setting Head space

  1. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by Randyc View Post
    What about using virgin brass?
    how does it compare to a factory load?
    I'm not sure what you mean about using virgin brass. I have some,and it measures 1.098-1.100.
    I do not have any factory ammo.
    Last edited by Hector; 06-17-2016 at 11:56 AM.

  2. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by Robinhood View Post
    Hector. You do not set the head space with the go gauge tight. You set it where the no go will not allow the bolt to close.
    Okay, but my FL sized brass head space is .001 larger then the go gauge.

  3. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by foxx View Post
    If you have your own brass that you've resized, and never intend to use anything different, you can headspace it off the resized brass. Just don't turn the barrel in so much that the bolt is hard to close on your brass. (I generally close the bolt, put the case in the chamber and spin it in till it stops against the bolt face. Check to be sure the bolt lifts alright, and if it's too tight so as to not lift easily, back it off a bit. Then tighten the barrel nut. Add tape to the case or go gage and check to see that the bolt handle will not close more than 1/2 way against the taped gage).
    Yesterday while I was waiting for reply's, I went ahead and resized a piece of brass, adjusting the die until I got .002 more head space-1.103 then a FL sized piece-1.101 and used it as a go gauge and then tape for the no go. it looks like I ended with .0015 of head space clearance. Do you think that is enough?

  4. #29
    Basic Member Zero333's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hector View Post
    Okay, but my FL sized brass head space is .001 larger then the go gauge.
    Measure the thickness of the go-gauge with a piece of tape on it and it should be 0.002" longer with the tape, assuming you're using masking tape. A no-go-gauge is usually 0.004" longer than the go-gauge so with 2 pieces of tape you will have 0.002"-0.0025" to spare. You can always screw the sizing die a little farther down to size the cases another thou, Unless you're already camming over the press fully.

    Don't forget to remove the ejector plunger when headspacing. Even tho I've done it a couple of times with it in, I already had a good feel from prior barrel swaps for how much to back the barrel out after it hits the go-gauge. Which is next to nothing.


    Ohh yea... the 6br will be ok with a "shorter" throat because it has generous neck length.

    If your freebore is short, just buy VLD bullets like the 95smk 107smk, 95 bergerVLD and 105 Berg.VLD&VLD hunting.
    Stay away from the 105amax and the 105 hornady bthp, they don't work well with little freebore.

  5. #30
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    I put on my 308 barrel and was good to have the gauges.

    Different than putting the light barrel on and off and a lot more adjusting to get it right.

    Nice to have the go no go for that back and forth. As time goes on not a big deal but I think they are worth the investment (field reject no, just add the tape to the no go if you get into needing to check that far out)

  6. #31
    Basic Member Robinhood's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hector View Post
    Okay, but my FL sized brass head space is .001 larger then the go gauge.
    Sounds perfect. Your head space needs to be about .001 longer than your sized brass and .002 longer than the min. that you go gauge measures. If you dont have a no go you will have to use tape to set your head space. Even if you are a few thousandths long for factory ammo you will not have case head separation. Just make sure you size all of your brass to fit after being fired. Anneal when the bullets get tougher to push in. You will know when if you are feeling for it.
    The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.

  7. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by Robinhood View Post
    Sounds perfect. Your head space needs to be about .001 longer than your sized brass and .002 longer than the min. that you go gauge measures. If you dont have a no go you will have to use tape to set your head space. Even if you are a few thousandths long for factory ammo you will not have case head separation. Just make sure you size all of your brass to fit after being fired. Anneal when the bullets get tougher to push in. You will know when if you are feeling for it.
    I'v got my press camming over harder now and was able to get the sized brass down .001 under the go gauge. So, from what you are saying I should be good. I hope to shoot it tomorrow. I'll report back.

  8. #33
    Basic Member Robinhood's Avatar
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    I think so. Your shell holder is touching the bottom of the die right?
    The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.

  9. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by Robinhood View Post
    I think so. Your shell holder is touching the bottom of the die right?
    Yes. It was before also but I guess not hard enough.

  10. #35
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    I got the X-Caliber barrel Friday and assmgled the rifle.

    While it went well, the dynamics were different that playing with the light pencil barrel that came off (and back on and off 3 or 4 times)

    The pencil barrel wanted to turn so it was a matter of turning back a bit and a bit of Kentucky windage as it were to get the set right.

    The Bull barrel did not turn at all and when tightened it pulled back (probably the threads margin) and went loose.

    It took about 5 back and forth before I got it right.

    Nice to have the gauges for that and the higher confidence in a those procedure wise.

  11. #36
    Team Savage jonbearman's Avatar
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    Please give us a range report good or bad but most likely good with your barrel choice.
    Willing to give back for what the sport has done for me!

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