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  1. #1
    Basic Member
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Biloxi, MS
    Age
    45
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    171
    I only suggest doing the cheek pieces on straight side stocks like the tacticool or pro varmint. It doesn't work well plus is hard to do when one side of the butt stock is angled. Take a pencil and mark the centerline of the top of your stock. Take a piece of paper and fold it in half. Use painters tape and tape the fold on the paper to the centerline on the top of the stock. Take a pencil and mark one side of the paper for the contour you want for the cheekpiece. Take the paper off and with it folded together, cut out the outline. Retape the paper to the stock and check to see if it is what you want. Make sure the bolt will not hit the cheekpiece to chamber another round. You make have to transfer the outline to another piece of paper to make modifications. I usually leave mine where the bold will function but I have to lower the cheek piece to remove the bolt. Once your paper mock up is perfect, tape it to the stock once again. Look at where the flat side of the stock begins to curve at the top of the stock. Figure out where you want your bolts to go and make a mark for each bolt about 1/2" below where it starts to curve. You have now marked the top of your bolt slots. Then under ONE of the top marks make a mark for the bottom of your bolt slot, usually 1.5" or so. Remove the paper, and take a straight edge and draw a line between the two marks for the bolt slot. Then measure distance between the top marks and make a second mark for the other bolt slot at the exact distance. Draw a line between those two marks. You should now have lines for two bolt slots going up and down. Measure out 1/8" on either side of both lines and mark it and draw lines. What you want is two rectangles, 1/4" wide with you original line in the middle (line of rectangle 1/8" on each side of your original lines. Hold up your paper where you can see the lines on the other side through the folded paper and transfer the rectangles to the other side. Now retype to stock and double check for correctness. Place pattern on Kydex and use a pencil and mark paper fold onto the Kydex, this will be the centerline of the Kydex and you will match these marks up to the ones you put on the stock earlier. Tape pattern to Kydex and cut out pattern exactly. Scroll saws work perfect for this. Dremels will work but are sloppy and messy. Once the Kydex outline if cut, place paper on Kydex and tape the entire paper pattern to the Kydex EXCEPT the bolt slots. Place the tape exactly on the edge of the bolt slots but don't cover them. Take a scalpel or knife and cut the paper that is where the bolt slots are. Then cut out the bolt slots in the Kydex. Now remove all the tape. Heat oven to 250 degrees and place Kydex on rack slick side down. Heat for 2-5 minutes until Kydex is pliable, but not shiny. If shiny then the Kydex was overheated. Use some oven mitts and remove Kydex and quickly place on stock. Line in the centerline marks and hold the Kydex against the stock until it has cooled some, about 2 minutes. Just hold into place, no excess downward pressure as that can stretch the Kydex and skew the bolt slots. Then tape the Kydex in several places to hold it against the stock until room temperature. Wrap all the way around the Kydex and stock so it forms correctly. Once cooled, keep it taped. Make a punch mark at the top of each bolt slot on both sides. 1/8" from top and each side. This is where you will drill into the stock with a 1/4" drill bit. Use a drill press if possible, but hand drill will do. Remove Kydex and tape up wood so it doesn't splinter where you drill. Only drill halfway through on each side, hopefully meeting in the middle. Clean up edges on Kydex with a file or lightly with a small sanding flap wheel on a Dremel. Use whatever knobs you wand and 1/4" carriage bolts and you are good to go.

    let me know if any of this was confusing.
    Last edited by n10sivern; 04-29-2016 at 08:14 PM.

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