Quote Originally Posted by Texas10 View Post
I'm no gunsmith, but I have done 4 stocks in the last 6 months, and I've worked with epoxy in the aircraft trade all my life. Having made my disclaimer, this is what I do. I wax the action good with neutral KiWI wax, and put a couple of layers of blue masking tape under the tang and barrel out near the middle of the forearm. Kids modeling clay (plasticene) works to fill notches and other places you don't want epoxy to fill in, or lock your action into the stock.

A couple of other tips; Don't use too much epoxy, use just enough. You won't have to do all the cavity filling and then grinding out epoxy afterwards. I tape off the trigger/release, plus use a little clay. Tape front and edges of recoil lug. Wax everything you don't want permanently attached.

Weigh your epoxy with a gram scale and get the mix ratio exact. Makes a huge difference in cure time and end results. I typically mix a 10 or 20 gram batch. The Devcon 10110 is 9 to 1 by weight, see how simple that is . Keep the project warm during cure.

Don't use action screws to hold down action while curing. I use elastic (blood draw) bands i get from the doctor to tie down the action into the stock. They grip to themselves and won't loosen during cure, and you can stretch them a mile.

Use headless 1/4-28 bolts wrapped with a couple of layer of tape to take up clearances and screwed into the action to center action into pillars. If installing pillars at the same time, which is the best idea because everything gets positioned all at once, wax the action screws and use them to hold pillars onto the action, then bed your action and pillars in one step. Use tape to take up clearances.

What stock are you buying?
Richard's microfit benchrest