If building for MYSELF, I prefer to headspace off of brass sized thru MY die. Make it tight for YOUR brass. Theoretically it is more accurate because there's less play. If you sell it to someone else, or try to use factory ammo, the bolt might not close on it b/c it is too tight.
If you use a go-gage, it should be fine regardless. If you want it to close easily (no resistance at all), you can back it off a tad as you said. Either way, be sure to double-check that the bolt handle will only close 1/3 to 1/2 way on a no-go gage (or resized brass with tape).
I managed to overlook the fact that the .338 has a break. How are you supposed to spin the barrel to get the desired headspace while still maintaining the brakes proper orientation?
Id assume to adjust one full rotation at a time to keep the brakes orientation but I'm pretty sure that 1 rotation makes too much adjustment....
Every time I think I'm ready to start load development I think of something else like this.
Set your head space then you have to time your brake
Care to elaborate? It's my first rifle with a brake and while go ogling some make it sound as simple as making sure the ports go up while others start talking about lathes and machine shops
I can't speak for the savage, but on some other rifles, timing the brake involves installing some sort of crush-washer behind it, and then tightening it down. The washer crushes slightly as you tighten, and you just stop when you reach dead-center. (Being careful not to go too far. You can't un-crush the washer.)
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