The grip area of Axis stocks is very prone to flexing so while stiffening the forearm is beneficial it does not affect the grip area and significant flexing will probably occur especially with calibers larger than 223. When you fill the butt with Rockite does it flow into the grip area?
dunno what you mean by 'grip area', but unlike some synth stocks, an axis butt stock requires plugging/taping the seam/hole where the stock ends and the trigger/action starts, and that's its 'grip area' if i recall correctly. after the rockite treatment, the entire stock is purty darned stiff, stiff as brick.Originally Posted by wbm
Grip area is that portion of the stock aft of the trigger guard....usually has a grip cap attached and you grip it either with your right or left hand depending on whether you have a right or left hand stock.dunno what you mean by 'grip area'
yes, after 60+ years messing with all manner of guns, i know where/what the grip is on a typical rifle - but what PART of that grip 'area' are you finding weak/flexible? is it the grip itself, or its forward connection to the action walls of the stock? it'll be a moot point if you rockite all of it.
hello all, i just did the rockite treatment to my .223 edge. front and rear (full buttstock). super easy to do. broke the buttpad tab of course, fixed with superglue gel. just need to get some shooting time in now. there is still some flex on the forend but not as bad as before. i may sand the barrel channel some to make sure there is no contact. thanks for the rockite tip!
there should be zero flex in forestock that's had the rockite treatment. one problem that can be is if the rockite is mixed too "soupy" and is less dense than it should be. it's too easy to use too much water. you'd want to achieve a poured viscosity something like a thick pancake batter, as this will insure a good density of the cured cement, and thus it'll be incredibly stiff. with an axis synthetic stock, the rockite needs to just overfill the forestock's honeycomb webbing. when the cement cures, a 1" or so dowel wrapped in 80 grit or so is used to relieve the barrel channel so it can properly float all the way back to the recoil lug. i prefer lots of room 'tween the channel and the barrel.
yup. i mixed it to wet. it was very soupy. i will see if i can break it out and repour it. directions ha who needs em.after rereading your post (rfd12fv) i now realize that i filled the individual cavities in the stock and did not overpour the webbing. this may be why it moves as well, it's not one piece. lesson learned.
Last edited by dogdad; 01-25-2016 at 10:19 PM. Reason: addition
So what is Rockite? Is it a concrete or a plastic?
concrete anchoring cement.
Are you coating it with anything? What happens when it gets wet? Cement does absorb water, so you might need to paint it with something.
Some finer points from someone who has done multiple stocks with this treatment,
1. Yes I needs to be like a pancake batter consistency. Mix very little water in at a time then stir til it is all absorbed.
2. Fill until just the tops of the interior reinforcements SHOW, even with the Rockite. Filling it more will only mean you have to sand out a barrel channel.
3. A flat black Primer or in my case I like the Rustoleum BBQ black to seal and blend the Rockite with the stock. Tape off the edges of the stock and a couple of passes should suffice. I don't believe this step is a necessity, BUT I like the look and the extra piece of mind.
I would say painting it is very necessary, cement holds moisture, not really something I'd want under my barrel. But if it's sealed or painted so it can't adsorb any moisture then maybe , but I'd keep an eye on it just to make sure It doesn't cause rust in the future.
I fully agree, although my orig reason was to cover up the grey. But as I got to thinking about it later, I was thinnking about the water in the mix, that had to go somewhere over time. Hence why sealing over the top with rustoleum felt like a advantageous thing to do.
On 3 savages I have experimented with how much is needed to stiffen the forend. Filling to half way up the cross reinforcement seems adequate and gave the same stiffness once dry, as filling to the top. I went ahead and filled to the top though afterwards in a second pouring, just to be safe.
i think i will pull the action out and place some clay in the forend in different spots and reinstall the action, torque to specs and remove, then see how much room i have and if needed i will drill some holes into the existing rockite and float a small amount on top of the existing rockite. this should in effect make it all one piece if there is sufficient room.
Why not just float some JB Weld or Bondo maybe Acraglass so that you seek the cement from collecting moisture?
I'm liking this idea to stiffen up the forend but I see how much water cement holds even when fully cured. Just look at a house foundation or basement wall after it rains.
there is NO functionally imperative need to "seal" rockite when used to fill butt and fore stocks. if yer worried about moisture content, which you shouldn't, use kwixset instead of rockite.
Hi guys, new Savage Axis owner here and of course the first thing I do when I get something new is seek out a forum for it, so here I am.
First thing I noticed was the flex in the forehand, so this thread is very interesting and probably something I'm going to do. Couple of questions that I haven't seen answered and I looked is.
1: How good is the adhesion to the plastic is the Rockite, need to rough up the plastic?
2: What happens if the gun gets knocked over, takes a hit, broken chunks of Rockite loose inside?
Just curious, thanks.
RFD looks like your the expert on this process, your youtube video's that you posted no longer show up, I really wanted to see the process.
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Thanks RFD, just what I was looking for. Guess I'll be pouring some Rockite sometime soon.
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