remove savage fcp-sr barrel, which is/are the right tool(s) for the job?

[Robinhood]

If you are using an action wrench never mind. If not, remove your front scope mount front screw.and get the Bald Eagle 4 bolt barrel vice if the former is true as well.

[Mozella]

I built my own barrel vise. I went to Home Depot (or was it Lowes?) and bought a 3' piece of 2"x2" oak (you MUST use the hardest wood you can find) as well as a piece of 2" wide by 1/4" thick steel bar. I cut off a 10 inch section of the oak, clamped the short section near one end of the long section with a 1/4" wooden spacer between the parts and drilled a hole about the size of my barrel. After discarding the spacer, the two semi circular cuts in the wood blocks will fit around the barrel, but with some clearance to allow me to clamp them down tight without bottoming out.

Then I reinforced the top and bottom wood blocks with a couple of 10" long pieces of the steel bar. I drilled holes for two 5/8" diameter clamping bolts, nuts, and washers, and I was good to go. By leaving the bottom piece of wood as long as possible, it is easy to clamp it to my work bench to handle the considerable torque required to remove the barrel nut. In other words, the clamping section is at one end of the lower piece with a long tail to provide a nice way to temporarily clamp the vise to your workbench using your largest C clamp.

Be sure to grease the threads so that you can REALLY clamp down on the barrel. You'll need a couple of good wrenches and really lay into the bolts and nuts to get enough clamping force. The Savage factory barrel nut torque is VERY high. You'll probably need to take a hammer to the barrel wrench.

By the way, all the guns smiths I talk too say to set the head space so that the "go" gauge fits. Then put a single layer of transparent packaging tape on the aft face of the gauge and make sure the bolt won't close with the tape in place. Of course, you can force it, but you should be able to detect the resistance and reluctance to close over the lengthened gauge. Remove the tape and re-check to be sure. That will give you enough head space but not too much and saves the cost of two gauges. Perhaps you can swap your "no-go" for a "go"

[MrO17]

Don't forget the Gorilla and 1/2" torgue wrench with a 6 ft pipe for good luck! LOL factory nuts are hard to break!

[earl39]

Don't forget the Gorilla and 1/2" torgue wrench with a 6 ft pipe for good luck! LOL factory nuts are hard to break!

Nope. Just got to hit the nut wrench with a solid blow from a heavy deadblow hammer