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  1. #1
    Basic Member hamiltonkiler's Avatar
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    Cabela's Savage 12FV THREAD FEST

    If you rack it slow it will hang up. Cycle that bolt back with a little more muscle which isn’t the right word, but firmer. The shell will come out fine.
    Bed that front recoil lug with JB weld.

    I put a little JB steel stick weld under my safety tang too.

    So bed the stock and tighten down the recoil lug front action screw to 10-15# and let the rear float. Don’t put the trigger action rear screw in untill it cures.
    Cheers. This is how I bedded my FV stock and the little .223 shoots little groups.


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    No matter how hard I worked the bolt, the round was stuck to the bolt face. I had to pry it off the bolt.

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    Quote Originally Posted by TommyD11730 View Post
    No matter how hard I worked the bolt, the round was stuck to the bolt face. I had to pry it off the bolt.
    Might be time to remove the extractor for cleaning while being careful not to lose the steel ball and spring. I work with a baggie over the bolt head to catch flying parts. Sounds like the extractor is jammed, perhaps rusted into the head? A good thorough cleaning will definitely help. Steel balls can be ordered by the 100's off Amazon. They're cheap.

    The issue with the Savage extractor/ejector design on the 223 is that the fired cartridge slams against the upper bolt lug abutment as it's being extracted. This jarrs it off the extractor and leaves a dent in the case. There are aftermarket solutions available. Check out this one: http://www.sharpshootersupply.com/

    I hope this helps.
    Banning a gun will not solve what is a mental health crisis inflamed by incendiary rhetoric on social and television media. The first amendment in this case is less precious and more likely the causal factor than the second amendment.

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    Basic Member Robinhood's Avatar
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    Disassemble the bolt head. Do it in a box or plastic bag. Everything has a spring so the energy will send small parts flying.

    Your looking for a functioning extractor and ejector. Also measure your bolt ace counter bore and you brass rims.
    The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.

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    One step forward, 2 steps back.
    I fixed the ejection issue. The bolt face was clocked 180 degrees! Replaced the detent ball with a oversized one and it works perfectly.
    However....
    The rifle is intermittently fireing on its own with the bolt rotating to close. Not every time, in and out of the stock. It has a Timney trigger. After adjusting the sear 6 ways to Sunday, without success I put the accutrigger back in
    Set it at 2.5 lbs and I can't get it to fire on its own anymore. The sear on the Timney has to me a worn spot. Hard to tell if it's factory but I doubt it.
    So tomorrow I'll bring it to the range and rack the bolt over and over and over...

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    Searched this forum high and low without a definite answer. Is there an actual torque spec for the stock screws?

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    Basic Member hamiltonkiler's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TommyD11730 View Post
    Searched this forum high and low without a definite answer. Is there an actual torque spec for the stock screws?
    No.

    I like mine at 15-60>>>>


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    Quote Originally Posted by hamiltonkiler View Post
    No.

    I like mine at 15-60>>>>


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    Damn.... 60 inch pounds. I'm surprised the insert doesn't spin in the stock.
    Thanks!

  9. #9
    Basic Member Robinhood's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TommyD11730 View Post
    One step forward, 2 steps back.

    However....
    The rifle is intermittently fireing on its own with the bolt rotating to close. Not every time, in and out of the stock. It has a Timney trigger. After adjusting the sear 6 ways to Sunday, without success I put the accutrigger back in
    Set it at 2.5 lbs and I can't get it to fire on its own anymore. The sear on the Timney has to me a worn spot. Hard to tell if it's factory but I doubt it.
    I guess you figured out that the trigger needs to be preloaded against the sear for it to not trip on bolt close. Inspect the trigger sear surface. It should be sharp not rounded. The sear needs to be inspected also.

    And you are right. If you do not have metal pillars or an aluminum chassis then 60 Inch/lbs is waaaay to tight. However if it does have pillars or is in a chassis then those numbers are close if you have the correct thread engagement.


    So, pillar your stock.
    The Dunning-Kruger effect is alive and well.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Robinhood View Post
    I guess you figured out that the trigger needs to be preloaded against the sear for it to not trip on bolt close. Inspect the trigger sear surface. It should be sharp not rounded. The sear needs to be inspected also.
    .
    The Timney triggers sear was FUBAR on my rifle. Putting the factory accutrigger back in fixed the fire on bolt close =0

    Is the accutrigger on these FV rifles the same on all accutrigger equipped Savages? Mine feels sharp/uncomfortable vs my buds 110 model.

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