Why not drill and tape a screw, in the barrel nut.
Has anyone ever used loc-tite on a barrel nut to basically create a shouldered rifle barrel? I was just trying to think of a way to get consistent headspace when swapping barrels when I thought of this.
My thought is, get a new nut for each barrel. Headspace it like normal, but once you have it where you want it just put some medium strength loc-tite on the nut to hold it's position. Now all you need to do is tighten doen the barrel every time, and you 're good. I don't know that this is any better or more accurate than just using witness marks but it sounded like a decent idea. Any thoughts?
Andrew
Why not drill and tape a screw, in the barrel nut.
Because that would require way more work than just using Loctite. ;D
Andrew
You may to do a search here on LocTite and read some of the more diverse and adamant opinions on the subject.
uj
Great minds think alike I have been thinking about the same thing I will probably try something like that or the tap and set screw route I got a couple actions at sss being timed and trued and have 7 barrels out being threaded for a brake have one long and short action so if something like that will work it will be great and if it don't it won't be the first good idea I tryed that didn't work
I believe that if you use a medium loctite and then remove the barrel, the next time you put the barrel on and snug up the nut you will move the nut on the threads. You wont hurt anything by trying it but I would add witness marks to make sure nothing moves when you snug up on the nut at a barrel swap. Let us know how it works.
El Lobo
This is one of my concerns. It could be easily fixed by using a higher strength loctite, but I don't want to "weld" a barrel on. I just might have to try this. I'll post the results if I get the nerve to try it.Originally Posted by ellobo
Andrew
Cut the slope off of a barrel nut. Install your regular barrel nut on the barrel first, then the cut off nut.
Adjust your headspace with the short nut, lock in place with the regular one. Double nuttttted. :)
I am a machinist and have had similar situations arise over the years. Loctite is a great product but you can't always count on it in this type of thing if you don't use a high enough strength so keep that in mind. I like the double nut idea, the tapped screw is another option. The only thing that concerns me is if you are using a standard savage nut wrench, how do you know you are torquing the nut the same every time. Maybe I am nitpicking here just a bit, but i know in machining and using fixtures for parts and die making, that a couple of foot pound of torque can make a huge difference when your tolerance is .002" or less. Just something to think about.
Maybe using a Torque wrench attached to your barrel wrench will give you the repeatability you may need, assuming its an issue of course. I am not saying to tighten the pi$$ out of the nut with the torque wrench, just using it so you have a way to measure for repeatability.
204, 22 K-Hornet, 222, 223, 22-250, 22-250AI, 6BR, 243, 243AI, 6-06, 6-WSM, 250-3000AI, 270, 7-08, 7RM, 30BR, 308, 30-06, 375 H&H, 444 Marlin, 450BM, 458WM
Forgot to add...do you know how to remove most flavors of Loctite? Heat.
I think I like the double nut idea better! No matter which way I did it, I'd still be double checking with headspace gages, just to be safe.
Andrew
If you are gonna check it with gauges, why bother with a double nut?
"As long as there's lead in the air....there's still hope.."
i dont think witness marks are that hard and you cant really screw that up
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