Beware: 10FCP-SR has been changed

[Rapid Case Kicker]

I put 50 rounds through mine today and my thread protector did shoot loose, but not so bad that I noticed before I finished.

I use suppressor and compensators on my guns and have found the best way to solve the thread protector problem of it coming while shooting. I thread it on all the way and tighten it by hand. Then I mark the bottom of the thread protector and drill a small hole there. Then I have a hole I can use to tighten it on with a spanner wrench without having to break out the pliers and mess up the finish.

[Ronnoc]

I use suppressor and compensators on my guns and have found the best way to solve the thread protector problem of it coming while shooting. I thread it on all the way and tighten it by hand. Then I mark the bottom of the thread protector and drill a small hole there. Then I have a hole I can use to tighten it on with a spanner wrench without having to break out the pliers and mess up the finish.

Why not a drop of Rocksett or Red Loctite? Most of my guns I just use a torque wrench for my QD muzzle devices, but it sounds like something like Rocksett would be better on this gun.

[Rapid Case Kicker]

Why not a drop of Rocksett or Red Loctite? Most of my guns I just use a torque wrench for my QD muzzle devices, but it sounds like something like Rocksett would be better on this gun.

Red Loctite works great at keeping the thread protector on the end of the barrel, but the little hole at the bottom of the thread protector allows me to take it off without using a tool that will mar the finish. Keeping my thread protector on isn't the issue, taking it off is.

[acridsaint]

Thanks for the tip.

I use suppressor and compensators on my guns and have found the best way to solve the thread protector problem of it coming while shooting. I thread it on all the way and tighten it by hand. Then I mark the bottom of the thread protector and drill a small hole there. Then I have a hole I can use to tighten it on with a spanner wrench without having to break out the pliers and mess up the finish.

[Jaggy13]

Wow, just keeps getting better.

I have the same version that Ronnoc has. When I called Savage I was told that it is a special edition made for cabelas. I was also told that the AccuStock will not fit the action as the recoil lugs are different.

-Neo

Hey guys, great sight here.
I was on board with one of these rifles for a long range project until I read this.

I was planning on dropping this action and trigger into a chassis and re-barreling in 260 rem.
This solved the bottom metal issue and I need AICS mags anyway, so no problem there. I was planning on keeping or selling the stock and barrel, even the bottom metal and mag.
But now, I don't know if the action is even worth buying.
The Cabelas model is what I was about to purchase. They are shipping one to my store so I can buy it.
Tell me if this is still going to work or not please.
If not, I still may go with the FCP-SR just on line instead of the Cabelas version.
Thanks in advance!

[acridsaint]

I don't get your question entirely. Are you thinking that the bottom metal will work for you? Because the new Savage metal doesn't work with AICS mags. If you're getting rid of everything but the action, I would not bother with the FCP-SR in either version. I'd just get a cheaper 10 model. You'll also get a stainless bolt that way, which are a little smoother out of the box, in my opinion. By the time your FCP bolt is smooth, it'll be missing half of the black finish anyways. The only thing that the FCP-SR action will get you is the extended bolt handle, which you can probably swap for less than the price difference.

[Twinsen]

If you're going with a chassis, just get the cheapest model 10/11/etc you can. Probably the hog hunter.

You can swap the bolt handle of a Savage in 2 minutes and they're cheap.

[Jaggy13]

Thanks for the reply's.
acridsaint, I was going to remove the bottom metal entirely. The Chassis has bottom metal for AICS built in.

Twinsen, The FCP-SR was the cheapest I could find.
It was $550 after rebait at Cabelas.

Now I am thinking of just choosing a different model as you have suggested.
Thanks for the suggestion of the steel bolt. I will do that.
Also I am new to Savages and Bolt guns in general but not to high round count shooting.
I want a good 1000 yard gun that bucks wind and stays flat with extended barrel life.
I choose the 6.5 based on those criteria and the 260 because I would like to add a gas gun down the road.

I'm open to any suggestions you have, I will be adding a suppressor at some point and a comp immediately, so a threaded barrel is needed, but can be done locally.
The gun that inspired me is a model 11 with a criterion barrel shooting 1/3 MOA.
I think I have decided on a 24" barrel mostly for the suppressor, do you think this rifle dropped into a chassis will work for what I want?
http://www.tombstonetactical.com/catalog/savage-arms/19130-10-predator-hunter-rifle-260rem-24in-3rd-max1-camo/
Or should I follow Twinsen's advice and choose the hog hunter and replace the barrel as well?

I would also like to stay with the top located bolt release, but I think one of my chassis options allows for trigger guard bolt release.
Thanks guys, I feel like I have been drinking from the fire hose on this project. Lots of info out there that is not necessarily linear.

Mods, If you want to break this post off into a new thread, I'm fine with that. Other wise, I will start a new topic called "help me build a long range rig"
Thanks in advance.