Something besides AR's

[thermaler]

Well--I'm no expert--here are just my opinions having built a few. I don't think it's strictly an apples to apples comparison when your talkin an AR type carbine compared to a bolt gun--though a mini-whatever is closer but still different in some respects. So comparing an accutrigger to a light pull AR whatever probably isn't a good one--because the two weapons are going to handle differently. Generally most "run of the mill" ARs come with a stock single stage trigger with a 6 lb or so pull. While a lot can be left to shooting technique--a lighter pull trigger will definitely help in tightening up your groups. For me, an AR--being a "sporting rifle" --is the kind of rifle I would more likely bring to bear quickly in a standing free-hand situation--one of the unequaled strengths of the AR type design. depending on the intended uses, it definitely helps to go to a lighter pull--I just find it a tad easier to do an AD with an AR set-up than a regular bolt-gun in shooting situations other than manicured bench or range shooting. AR triggers can easily be adjusted with a simple spring swap--though "modular" drop in trigger group designs offer similar screw adjustments as you might find in something like an accutrigger.

Whether or not a light pull on an AR is safe really depends on a bunch of variables--but I know myself well enough that if I went wandering around in the woods or back yard dynamically shooting with anything less than 3.5 (and even that is pretty light)--sooner or later I would goof up and launch one unintentionally (that's another way of saying been there, already done that). I think you'll be fine with something like a JP which you can dial up or down in the 3 to 5 lb range. I'd recommend 4 or 4.5 as a good starting point for an AR. If you truly anticipate the majority of your shooting coming from the bench for match results--then by all means go lighter than 3 lbs--just be aware of the limitations. That's my summary of the trigger pull for AR's --but I'm sure you'll have no problem finding others who will totally disagree ; )
The wylde flavor of 223 usually means a tighter chamber and closer tolerances for everything--unless you intend on reloading in pursuit of the holy grail load I think you'll find getting sub MOA is easily achievable with a good "conventional" 223/5.56. It's tough enough just figuring out the barrel length and twist rate you want. : ) But I have no experience with wylde--so take this opinion with a healthy dose of salt.

[Appleseed]

Thanks for the advise, still have some testing to do and will try a two stage trigger.

BTW, how's the lobster harvest this summer? Have always wanted to surf fish stripers there on the coast.

[Chrazy-Chris]

Thanks for the advise, still have some testing to do and will try a two stage trigger...

FYI I think the Geisseles are pretty much the industry standard on two stage triggers. An accutrigger vs two stage is a fair comparison to how it feels from the perspective of the shooter. You have some known "slack" to pull up, then you hit the first second stage and it breaks cleanly and crisply as you continue to pull. If you're shooting for accuracy and not volume, you pull the first stage right away then squeeeeeeeze through the second stage just like you would an accutrigger. If you pull up the first stage and decide not to shoot, you simply let go, again as you would on an accutrigger, and it is spring loaded back to its starting position (like an accutrigger). On an AR if you are firing closer range and/or at a higher rate of fire, you won't even notice the first stage since you can just pull right through it.

I prefer two-stage triggers on my ARs. I have the Geissele SSA on my AR carbine and the SSA-E on my heavy-barreled AR. The SSA-E isn't quite as light as I would like for the precision-purposed AR, but is still very nice. The Geissele match grade triggers are nicer yet, adjustable, and can be pretty much as light as you want to go.