Action wrench

[SWN]

I've read all the horror stories of twisting an action with a rear entry wrench. I am assuming they are talking about the wrench model that just catches the action at the rear inch or so. I can see that twisting pretty easy. But how about the full rear entry action wrench that goes all the way into the chamber area. Seems to me that it is holding the same area as the clamp on action wrench holds, just from the inside.
I plan on using an oak wood block clamp style action wrench which I built. I am using a bolt for the recoil lug to hit on before it twists in the wood. Will this put to much twist on the lug? I could also add a bolt screwed into the action to add a little more hold.
The reason I ask about the full rear entry action wrench is that I plan on using it in addition to my homemade oak job. So far the only coin out of my pocket is on the SSS barrel nut wrench.
The rear entry wrench is milled and turned on a lathe. The oak blocks are cut to pretty close tolerances. Not some redneck backyard hack job. Just keeping costs down in a bad economy. (That's what they say at work ALL the time now). Thanks

[SHL540KB308]

SWN, here are my personal thought's on this subject. I find that there is no reason for an action wrench while working on a Savage. All that is required is to hold the barrel. During assembly I can hold the action with my free hand while I tighten the nut. The action will only turn so far until the nut's tight, just keep ahead of it. Most of the recoil lugs that I have seen come with a pin or detent for the action, no reason to retain, or hold, these either. So, the wrench you already have, make something to hold the barrel and you should be good. I do have an action wrench, but only use it for the Remington's with no nut. Once you do the headspace thing, you will see, how easy it is. You will gain headspace when you tighten the nut. No set number (.000) change here because this is based on thread clearance which I assume you will not have control over. If you feel uncomfortable trying the above, make the wrench, but keep it simple, all your doing is holding the action while the nut is tightened, really no stress applied to the action at this time. Hope this helps and might save you some money and time in this bad economy.

Later, Brad

[BillPa]

I've read all the horror stories of twisting an action with a rear entry wrench. I am assuming they are talking about the wrench model that just catches the action at the rear inch or so.

A "Rear Entry Wrench" is not used in the bridge , its inserted all the way into the ring. They're standard fare for shouldered switch barrel setups, what that one was originally made for. Anyone using one in the bridge deserves a twisted action. I also use it to un-twist warped actions.






That setup only used for swaps after the factory installed barrels were removed. For the "snug" factory installed barrels I use a clamp on wrench. I don't use barrel blocks, hammers, pipe wrench or hacksaws. If I were doing 10, 20 or 30 a day I might use a different arrangement, but for the small number I do, 36 so far for myself and some friends, this setup does the job quit easily.


Bill

[j-red]

I use a rear entry wrench from Kelbly's made for a Remmy, i think. works perfectly and is the only thing that i can find that will allow barrel changes at the range. No need for a barrel vise. Echo what was said about not taking off a factory barrel with one, though. just rebarrels.

[wkt60]

I'll echo what BillPa says .Will also say his setup in the last picture for barrel removal is GREAT. I've been using it for my last 5 factory barrel removals and it couldn't be easier.

[JCalhoun]

I he should write a technical article about how he made it and all other details we need to know about. (hint-hint) ;D

[slurpin dog]

For the "snug" factory installed barrels I use a clamp on wrench.
Bill

Bill, when removing factory barrels are you saying the action is not held? You hold the nut and turn

the barrel, if I understand correctly. Will the barrel then turn, by hand, from the action?

Thanks , Ron

[BillPa]

I he should write a technical article about how he made it and all other details we need to know about. (hint-hint) ;D

LOL...Shall I rush the job I was rushing before I rush the job you rushed in with? ;D

It really isn't too tecknenal!

A piece of something for a base and three blocks. I used some scrap 3/4" plywood for the bas. One block set flat with a saw cut for the nut wrench to keep it from slid'n around, and two others to keep the barreled action high enough off the base so the action can turn with the mag mounted if need be. The only change I made since taking that picture was making an adjustable "V" notched block on the left to level the barrel action.

All ya do...install the action wrench, slip on the nut wrench so the handle of the action wrench is at about a 45 degree angle or less to the floor or bench then plop your 245 lbs down on the handle. Once the action rotates about a quarter turn or to where you smashed your knuckles between the wrench handle and the floor, pick up on the nut wrench to finish the job.

Ya say you don't weigh 245? In that case invite a friend over for a beer! Actually its take less effort than you would think. Worst case slid a 2' section of pipe over the wrench handle for a cheater bar.

[BillPa]

For the "snug" factory installed barrels I use a clamp on wrench.
Bill

Bill, when removing factory barrels are you saying the action is not held? You hold the nut and turn

the barrel, if I understand correctly. Will the barrel then turn, by hand, from the action?

Thanks , Ron

No, the action is turned, the nut and barrel stay stationary. All I'm doing the breaking the action loose from the recoil lug instead of the nut away from the recoil lug.

Bill

[Uncle Jack]

I use the action wrench lilke a vise. I just chuck the action wrench with the barreled action up in my bench vise and then a tap on a barrel nut wrench with a 3# dead blow hammer is about all it takes. When I'm through both wrenches go back in the drawer and the bench is clean.

uj