Reply With Quotebedding
I am sighting in the new savage 111 .300 win mag build that me and my bro have finished and the accuracy that we are getting is poor at best. It is a criterion barrel that has been broke in properly and is sitting in a boyds nutmeg stock. we have inletted the barrel to the stock and is now free floating, so there are no contact points. We have been shooting 180gr. nosler balistic tips into around 1" at 100yards and just recently tried some remington 180 gr. accutips tonite and it hit center on first shot and then 4" low on the next shot. The rifle has been shooting all over the whole break in process and so my question is what could be causing the stringing and widespread shots? Im confused myself and dont what could be wrong. Any info on this would be great. Thanks
bedding
Life is tuff.....its even tuffer when your stupid
{John Wayne}
Check to see if base & ring are loose, need clearance around front, sides & bottom of recoil lug, check tang for free float, if no free float, the action may not be touching pillars. Scope may have went bad, if other things don't help, try another scope.
My bet is Scope failure or scope base issue.
Often times the screws for the front base are too long and they bottom out before they actually tighten on the base itself. So you think its tight, but its not.
If all that checks out then as mentioned above check the tang for float. With a Remmy there is a screw there so you would want it bedded or at least snug, but on a Savage the screw is well ahead of it and long story short it can cause action pressure point issues and can cause problems.
204, 22 K-Hornet, 222, 223, 22-250, 22-250AI, 6BR, 243, 243AI, 6-06, 6-WSM, 250-3000AI, 270, 7-08, 7RM, 30BR, 308, 30-06, 375 H&H, 444 Marlin, 450BM, 458WM
Originally Posted by short round
^^^this... goodluck! and let us know any updates...
Sometimes the Savage rifles take a slight bit of tweaking, but once they are dialed in there are no complaints!
First off it it isn't bedded...Bed it...then I would disassemble the entire rifle, completely, scope and rings, mounts as well, clean, inspect and reassemble torquing everything to spec. Fire it again...also...some scopes are just not up to 300WM recoil levels...consider getting better glass if you are not running a really good scope now, or just swap it out with another scope to see if the problem persists (its scope related at that point)...also...some twist/caliber configurations do not like X bullet weights...I found my Savage 300WM liked 168-175 Sierra's but not the 200+ bullets...my Savage 308 likes 175 FGMM, hates 168's, same twist rate, different caliber...it'll take some tweeking but my bet is you'll get it sorted out...
Thanks for all the good info. Do you happen to know the torque specs for the savage action screws?
My experience with Boyd's stocks is they need to be glass bedded, especially if it doesn't have pillars installed.
Ok. So should i bed the whole action or just part of the action(like from recoil lug to magazine well and then do the tang area in the rear)? What works best as far as bedding goes for the savage?
Some people do just the front area, some people the front and rear area. Either way float the tang.
204, 22 K-Hornet, 222, 223, 22-250, 22-250AI, 6BR, 243, 243AI, 6-06, 6-WSM, 250-3000AI, 270, 7-08, 7RM, 30BR, 308, 30-06, 375 H&H, 444 Marlin, 450BM, 458WM
I bed front and rear and float the tang. That has worked for me time after time so I stay with it.
Another thing to check, is front action screw, a tad to long causing it to rub bolt head lug.
All actions should be bedded around each action screw, recoil lugs and preferably the distance between.
So on savage recoil lug to trigger. Float the tang. I go two pieces of electrical tape on the tang
Agreed large calibers watch your scopes. I wouldnt put anything other than luepold vortex NF S&B swfa on it.
Check the action screws get a metal trigger gaurd if your using a plastic one.
Pillar bed!
Might be kind of a dumb question but, is the tang area in between the recoil lug and the where the trigger sits in the stock?
No the tang is at the rear of the action. The area under the safety button.
204, 22 K-Hornet, 222, 223, 22-250, 22-250AI, 6BR, 243, 243AI, 6-06, 6-WSM, 250-3000AI, 270, 7-08, 7RM, 30BR, 308, 30-06, 375 H&H, 444 Marlin, 450BM, 458WM
Heres my recent bedding jobs
Heres my recent bedding jobs
Ok great. Thanks for the picts and the helpful insights. Im going to bed the 111 soon and maybe pillar bed it shortly after.
1" groups @ 100 with a 300 WM? I would go back to the Noslers and play with seating depth and/or powder....1" is a great start. I would add that recoil/flinch may be one of the issues....have you shot heavy recoil rifles before?
I notice one reply said the recoil lug needs clearance on front, sides and bottom. I thought it needed to be bedded to stop torquing and movement
the lug should be floated except for the rear face of the lug (breach side) It should be true to the rear of the recoil lug so the recoil does not force the action/barrel to one side or the other under recoil.
I don' think it is possible to bed and then pillar later. Doesn't make much sense to me to try, anyhow. Just my humble opinion, of course.
How does it stop side to side movement if it only touches the breach side? My Choate tactical stock had a big gap in front and side of lug and the Choate tech guy said it was left that way because people were putting thicker lugs on but he would bed the entire lug if it was his which I did and the gun shoots under 1/2 moa. This was my first but not last build and maybe I was lucky.
some shooters will permanently bed their action to their stock, but I won't.
If the action is bedded properly it won't shift. The recoil lug is suppose to handle the recoil, it is not there to stop any side to side twisting caused by pour action bedding.
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