Quote Originally Posted by Theranthrope View Post
This is quite relevant to my interests...

I have a an Axis in 30.06 LH and while the kick isn't anything unreasonable; I do want to develop a proper shooting-form while firing "big-boy" (.308/7.62mm, 30.06, 300win mag, and higher...) rounds, without having to "un-break" myself from a flinch; preferably before one even develops in the first place...

However, that requires mitigating recoil: To that end, I bought and installed, a new and heavier Boyd's stock (their, er um... sorta... "Featherweight"* Thumbhole stock), with the mid-level recoil-pad option (the Pachmyar one). Despite the weight, I am rather happy with it.


The only thing I can do now is add a compensator/muzzle-break on the front end, which lead to two options:

1): Buy a new (preferably bull) barrel, which starts at $200 (at the Gunshack, but that requires patience... he does what he can...), but the price can ramp up quite a bit depending on what on what brand and option(s) I want (fluting, ect; however, barrel-threading still is an absolute MUST for this project), then I either hand my parts to a gunsmith for $150-300 of labor; or being a DIY-type-of-guy with some tools, I'd still have to buy (or craft... As an action vise can be made with as little as $20, or less, worth of hardware... presuming you have sufficient woodworking and/or machine-shop tools handy...) $90-$200 worth of gear (Barrel-nut wrench, Action-vice, precision caliper, rosin power, thread-protector, ect...), plus "go" and "no go" gauges (I am told, and while it isn't recommended, a "go" gauge with two layers of scotch-tape can act as a "no-go" gauge, in a pinch...) and hope the thing doesn't blow up in my face at the range because I accidentally left a screw out... then buy and install a $99(+) muzzlebreak (with a $15 washer-tuning kit). Turning a $289 gun into a $800+ mess...

2): Keep the stock barrel, and either pay a gunsmith either $200-250 to tap and thread the end of your barrel and tune your $99(+) muzzlebreak; or if you are a DIY-type-of-guy (I.E. a stubborn dumbass, like me) with some tools, buy a specialized $25 5/8"-24 Size tap, $15 5/8-24 specialized thread alignment tool Die Starter, $15 wrench, and $9 tapping fluid, $15 washer tuning kit... on top of a $185 muzzlebreak (...among other things, I'm glad I bought from Amazon, with their return-policy *sigh*). Likewise, turning a $289 gun into a $600+ chore...

Then I find out...

3): There is a tool does what I want and looks SEXY as-all-get-out**; that doesn't require the tools and techniques from -either- above options and it cost's -only- $149.95! SERIOUSLY?! SIGN ME UP!

In the end: I'm just interested in how diligent I have to be about fastener-torque and mitigating potential barrel-marring.




*It is, by NO means "Featherweight", as my rifle weighs almost weighs TWICE as much as it did (no scope); however I'm FINE with that. It's heavy, but it feels really nice and SUPER SOLID in any firing stance (In the woods, where every added ounce is fatiguing, your mileage may vary...).

** Bulky "soapbar"-type muzzlebreaks just say "sniper" and "deadly" to me; as ugly as they are, I truly love them...
I like it on my 300 win mag--almost makes it a pleasure to shoot lol. Just two caveats: make absolutely sure the fore and aft openings are EXACTLY the right diameter for your barrel (doesn't mean match it, you'll need a bit of room for getting it on and torquing down) and 2) check periodically that it hasn't come loose--especially if it's on a big boom stick. Mine (the properly sized one) hasn't budged on my 300 win mag yet and I love the improvement it makes.