How do I remove the firing pin ?

[Hylander]

Model 10 .223

[Blue Avenger]

take the screw out of the back of your bolt handle. shake the bolt tube a little so the sleeve slides out and pull the cocking pin out of the side. the firing pin will then come out.

[Blue Avenger]

[Hylander]

take the screw out of the back of your bolt handle. shake the bolt tube a little so the sleeve slides out and pull the cocking pin out of the side. the firing pin will then come out.

Got it
Thanks :)

[Hylander]

Put it back together and the bolt seemed harder to close ?
Anywho I took the little balls & Spring out of the Baffle
and took a half coil of the spring. Polished all the mating surfaces and
Put it back together and now it is easier :)
The shortened Coil made the biggest difference.

[mil-dot]

how often should you disassemble and clean the bolt?

Jesse

[GaCop]

Shortening the FP spring will lighten things up but could cause ignition problems.

[cwop]

one piece of advice i got on b/beard was to put primers in cases, fire the rifle as cutting the spring until it started to loss strike on primer. suggested buying an extra spring just in case.

made sense to me i plan on using this on my 6br

bob

[dolomite_supafly]

From another thread:

Ok, I KNOW this doesn't work, is wrong, ill advised, but.....

The list of things I do on the pin/bolt assembly...

1. Make sure the cocking piece sleeve is round. Many times they are "egg shaped" and drag on the cocking piece.
2. De-burr the slot for the cocking piece pin. Make sure the pin moves freely.
3. Polish the inside of the sleeve.
4. Tap the cocking piece and lock the pin in place using a 1/4-28 set screw.
5. Cut 2-1/2 coils off the firing pin spring.
6. Make sure the firing pin is straight.
7. Make sure the bolt head retaining pin moves freely in the bolt sleeve.
8. Re-cut the radius smaller on the bolthead clearance of the spring washer ID.
9. Relocate the spring washer between the baffle and bolthead.
10. Turn a .050" long, .40x" something in diameter shoulder on the bolt assembly screw. It keeps the cocking
pin sleeve in alignment and from "walking" on the face of the screw. ( by the way, the old slotted screws had this)
11. Set the firing pin protrusion to .035-.040"
12. Set the cocking piece pin stop position for .005" clearance at the bottom of the ramp. You want he stop/adjustment nut stopping the pin forward travel, not the cocking piece pin.
13. Apply a SMALL amount, just barely wet the surface of the cocking ramp and lugs with bolt grease.

When all this is done you should be able to start the assembly screw with the pin in the cocking ramp detent, have a more consistent locktime, less bolt lift and will reliably fire.

Other than that, I don't touch'm!

I generally follow this list when I go through any of my bolts and it does do a lot for smoothing things out. I don't do everything but most things on the list I do.

Dolomite