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Thread: Pillars for Tacticool

  1. #1
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    Pillars for Tacticool


    Any reason the pillar set for sale on eBay wouldn't work for a Tacticool 110 blind mag? Does anyone have any experience with these pillars? I have never pillared a stock, are they a universal length or should I expect to trim them to fit?
    Thanks

  2. #2
    thomae
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    I have not looked at them, but you will likely need to trim to fit.

    Also, most Boyd's stocks have reinforcing crosspins installed in the stock behind the action screw holes, so if the pillar diameter is too large, you will have to figure out a work around. Not hard to do.

    I have used lamp rod as pillars on a Boyd's stock successfully.

  3. #3
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    Ok great thanks for the info! I just noticed that Stockys sells the savage factory pillars, they look to be smaller in diameter. That mite be the way to go, less chance of running into the cross pins.
    -Leo

  4. #4
    sa-shooter
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    If you have an older non-accutrigger you will need to notch the rear pillar here is an example
    I made my own pillars out of aluminum,photo 2 is rough glue in, photo 3 is bottom veiw and last is front pillar

  5. #5
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    I think all the 10/110's need the rear pillar notched, Accu-trigger or not.

    As Thomae said. lamp rod. It is cheap and easy. If you cut/file/grind too short, no big deal, try again. I've used them in a couple different Boyd's stocks, including Tacticool. Anything different is a royal waste, as far as I can tell.

  6. #6
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    Great info guys! Thanks.
    I am not really set up to mill my own pillars out of aluminum, but I am very intrigued by the lamp rod idea. What diameter lamp rod do you use? I would imagine that lamp rods are steel or can you find aluminum ones?

  7. #7
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    Brass. All the same size as far as I know. I like the fact too that they are threaded. Helps hold itself in the epoxy.

  8. #8
    sa-shooter
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    Quote Originally Posted by Londerko View Post
    Great info guys! Thanks.
    I am not really set up to mill my own pillars out of aluminum, but I am very intrigued by the lamp rod idea. What diameter lamp rod do you use? I would imagine that lamp rods are steel or can you find aluminum ones?
    You can also use steel spacers hillman makes them, Homedepot,Lowes has them 1/4" x 5/8" (outside diameter) that was my first choice on pillars,but decided to fool around and try something different. good luck on your project !

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    Thank again guys, I really appreciate it

  10. #10
    Gunmutt
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    I think using lamp rod is a good idea but does anyone make a set of pillars ready for the savage based rifles?

  11. #11
    thomae
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gunmutt View Post
    I think using lamp rod is a good idea but does anyone make a set of pillars ready for the savage based rifles?
    The problem is that the length needed is different depending on the particular stock you are using.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by thomae View Post
    I have not looked at them, but you will likely need to trim to fit.

    Also, most Boyd's stocks have reinforcing crosspins installed in the stock behind the action screw holes, so if the pillar diameter is too large, you will have to figure out a work around. y.
    Getting ready to add pillars to my Tacticool as well. I would really like to know about the crosspins. What are they made of?

  13. #13
    thomae
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    I don't have a Tacticool (yet) but I presume they are the same as in the other Boyd's stocks I have seen. They are made of metal. As far as I can tell, they are rods with threaded ends, probably #8 or #10 diameter with recessed end caps covered up with wood plugs. What I did was in one case was to dremel a flat in the threaded part of the lamp rod I was using as a pillar. It went in well and has functioned quite properly since then.

  14. #14
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    Drilled my stock out over the weekend and put new pillars in. Did not run into any cross pins. It went well and was not as difficult as I had thought it would be.

  15. #15
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    Cool. post pics when you're done.

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    Quote Originally Posted by TheWgp View Post
    Drilled my stock out over the weekend and put new pillars in. Did not run into any cross pins. It went well and was not as difficult as I had thought it would be.
    What size bit did you drill with? Did you go wih the lamp rod or another type pillar? Just got a call from Boyds and my prarie hunter is done and I'll be picking it up tomorrow and plan on bedding pillars and action.

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    I used a 9/16 Forstner Bit to drill it. The pillars I picked up on ebay They were around .50 round and the rear had the notch for the sear already cut.

  18. #18
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    The Wgp,
    Did you have to trim the pillars to length? I am looking at the same set on eBay. Would you buy again? Any pics?
    Thanks - Leo

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    Quote Originally Posted by Londerko View Post
    The Wgp,
    Did you have to trim the pillars to length? I am looking at the same set on eBay. Would you buy again? Any pics?
    Thanks - Leo
    Did not have to trim the length at all. I did have to trim the notch for the sear a bit. Yes I would buy them again.

  20. #20
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    Great! Glad to hear! Sounds like a good fit for the Tacticool. Are you planning on glass bedding it to? Thanks again for the info.
    -Leo

  21. #21
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    I did it all at the same time. I didnt use the Devcon that comes with the Pillars, I used Steel Bed from Brownells for the pillars and the action bedding. Turned out pretty good.

  22. #22
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    Sorry to keep bothering you. Just 2 more questions:
    Did you use a drill press to drill out the holes? Any tricks for getting the action screws centered in the pillars?

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Londerko View Post
    Sorry to keep bothering you. Just 2 more questions:
    Did you use a drill press to drill out the holes? Any tricks for getting the action screws centered in the pillars?
    No worries. I did use a drill press and went to Harbor Freight and picked up this vise. Used a level to get the stock setup correctly and drilled from the bottom of the stock on the back pillar and I drilled the front from both the top and bottom. The back is hard to drill from the top because of the notch for the sear.

  24. #24
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    Thanks again, I really appreciate it. You have been very helpful, especially since I'm looking into doing the exact same thing

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    One thing I will tell you is to go slow and take your time. My action screws were a little to long once everything was done. Im going to take a little bit off of the ends this weekend. Right now I have washers in place.

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