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Thread: Recoil lug ?

  1. #1
    Team Savage bushwackr's Avatar
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    Recoil lug ?


    I have been reading here alot about people replacing the lug with the one sold by NSS and others. What is the big diffrence between a factory lug thats trued up and the others? Sorry for my ignorance but if there both straight does it make any diffrence

  2. #2
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    The aftermarket lug is machined out of thicker metal than the factory lug. Tighter tolerances as well. The difference is, it takes "that" part out of the equation as a possible accuracy deterrent.
    Last edited by RP12; 02-11-2014 at 07:24 PM.

  3. #3
    Basic Member bootsmcguire's Avatar
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    Factory recoil lugs are a stamping, aftermarket (like the ones from SSS and NSS) are machined. Like RP12 said, much tougher and resistant to flex and much straighter for a more even engagement to the bearing surface in the stock.
    204, 22 K-Hornet, 222, 223, 22-250, 22-250AI, 6BR, 243, 243AI, 6-06, 6-WSM, 250-3000AI, 270, 7-08, 7RM, 30BR, 308, 30-06, 375 H&H, 444 Marlin, 450BM, 458WM

  4. #4
    Team Savage bushwackr's Avatar
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    well I just ordered a lug, and some other goodies of course from NSS.

  5. #5
    Basic Member bootsmcguire's Avatar
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    Also I should have added above, that the machined lug helps keep the barrel straighter to the action. Adding the Trued Barrel Nut from NSS takes that again one step further in keeping the barrel straight and true.
    204, 22 K-Hornet, 222, 223, 22-250, 22-250AI, 6BR, 243, 243AI, 6-06, 6-WSM, 250-3000AI, 270, 7-08, 7RM, 30BR, 308, 30-06, 375 H&H, 444 Marlin, 450BM, 458WM

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    Quote Originally Posted by bootsmcguire View Post
    Also I should have added above, that the machined lug helps keep the barrel straighter to the action. Adding the Trued Barrel Nut from NSS takes that again one step further in keeping the barrel straight and true.
    Seems to me that's 90% of the rationale, don't you think?

  7. #7
    Basic Member bootsmcguire's Avatar
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    It is the major part of the argument for switching to the machined ones. How I managed to not include it in my original response escapes me.
    204, 22 K-Hornet, 222, 223, 22-250, 22-250AI, 6BR, 243, 243AI, 6-06, 6-WSM, 250-3000AI, 270, 7-08, 7RM, 30BR, 308, 30-06, 375 H&H, 444 Marlin, 450BM, 458WM

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    Besides the fact that it's so dang hard removing the original factory nut, you kinda feel like you gotta do SOMETHING more than just replace the barrel once you get it apart! :)

  9. #9
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    Factory lug also could be prone to weakness where the tab portion tapers to the ring. Not a whole lot of metal there for repeated flexing. Aftermarket has much more metal in the skirt area of the lug. Also a bit thicker and like others pointed out, factory is stamped. Try laying factory on an absolute flat surface. I had one that rocked slightly, was not square at all.

  10. #10
    Basic Member Stockrex's Avatar
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    Alas, if the factory lug was that bad, how are the factory rifles shooting sub moa?
    It is more a psychological need

  11. #11
    Basic Member barrel-nut's Avatar
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    All of the above, plus.. IT'S MORE PURDIER!!! ;-)

  12. #12
    Team Savage snowgetter1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stockrex View Post
    Alas, if the factory lug was that bad, how are the factory rifles shooting sub moa?
    It is more a psychological need
    I have a 110 that was a 30-06 my dad gave me. When I put a 260 barrel on it I noticed the factory lug was bent forward just below the receiver. Dad states he has fired hundreds of rounds in it and he bought it used. I did not have a new lug on hand to replace and put the bent one back on. The lug was bedded and the gun was more consistent with the bent lug than it is now with the machined lug. But, I have not went back to the bent one yet.

  13. #13
    buxman66
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    Interesting responses. Bought one myself for a barrel threading job to be done, only to find that the AFTERMARKET part was poorly manufactured ( counterfeit ) supposedly. Luckily my lgs is able to run a longer chuck/arbor combination and turn my barrel w/the action attached.

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