I did a Springfield 1911 frame about 4 years ago and it still looks good for a daily carry pistol I'm not sure as far as barrel I can't help as I parked it
I'm interested in anyone's experience that has used this spray-and-bake in a can. Have a new stainless barrel and wondering:
- How much surface prep is required
- Does it hold up well to scuffing, banging, the regular regiment of use
- Is it resistant to cleaning solvents
Thx.......Charlie
I did a Springfield 1911 frame about 4 years ago and it still looks good for a daily carry pistol I'm not sure as far as barrel I can't help as I parked it
Do your self a favor and skip the wheeler rattle can. I tried it after my disappointment with dura coat and have settled on kg gunkote! No mixing and excellent results with a $20 airbrush from harbor freight. The wheeler stuff is EXTREMELY brittle when cured and in my experience rather than scratching it flakes off in large pieces. My first piece out of the oven with KG I took a quarter to it with no scratches
Ceracoating is the toughest to date but the kg guncoat is supposed to be really tough. The rattle cans never have the same result as regular duracoat you have to mix the hardener and paint ,applying it with an airbrush.
Willing to give back for what the sport has done for me!
Thanks guys......Charlie
Don't mean to hijack, but do you sand blast and pre heat your parts with the gunkote?
12 LRP .204, 200 .243 project rifle. (action), 116 SS action, 200 270
KG says that hard anodized aluminum does not need to be blasted, but steel and bare aluminum do. I do preheat my parts before I spray them. Most important thing with all these coating is to completely degrease before spraying.
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