Question about setting up FL resizing die - Am I doing it right?

**Leozinho** · 10-27-2013, 07:38 PM

I posted this on another forum, but there's a lot of reloading knowledge here so I'm looking for all the responses I can get.

This is my first time reloading for precision. I'm reloading once fired (in my rifle) 6.5 Creedmoor brass in a Lee single stage press, RCBS shell holder and Hornady Custom Grade dies (full length).

I set the die up according to Hornady's instructions, which is to raise ram to highest position before camming (there's no cam in the Lee) and screw die down until it just touches the shell holder. Set lock ring. So far so good.

However, when I place a piece of brass in the shellholder to size a case, there is a .014 gap between the die and the shellholder when the ram is at the highest position. (Is the Lee press flexing?)

Retesting without a case, the shellholder once again touches the die at its highest position.

Is this gap normal? I know my Lee press isn't the most robust of the single stage presses, which has me concerned about the flex.

Slightly related, should I have gone ahead and screwed the die down another 1/16 or 1/32 of a turn (which would have been bumping the shoulder a touch)? This is not the method shown in Hornady's directions, but seems to be what many people advise.

Thanks for the replies.

goinssr · 10-27-2013, 08:17 PM

I would not worry about a .014" gap when full length resizing. If I were precision reloading for some serious competition then I may pay attention to it. Is it possible that your brass is fire stretched? Check it with calipers. It may need to be trimmed.

**Leozinho** · 10-27-2013, 08:45 PM

I was going to trim it after resizing. Do i have the steps out of order?

goinssr · 10-27-2013, 08:53 PM

Actually, after thinking about it, there will not likely be enough stretching due to firing that would make enough difference. There should be enough room in the top of the die to take care of that. Personally I would just ignore such a miniscule gap. Reload some and if they chamber and fire okay then go to town on them.

**Jetpig** · 10-27-2013, 10:02 PM

Chances are you are already oversized. If the brass was fired in your rifle, the same rifle it will go back in, screw the die down until it touches the ram, then back it off 1/2 turn. Size one and see if it chambers in your rifle without any problems with the bolt closing. If it does fit with no issues, you can back the die out 1/4 more turn and try it again. If the bolt closes hard, screw it in 1/4 turn and try chambering again. Ignore the gap. Also if it has been fired in your rifle, you can also just neck size it with a neck sizing die. Goal, minimal headspace. This info is for a bolt gun which I assume we are talking about.
There are also several chamber gauges out there that can give you a picture of your chamber measurements and aids in instant setup of your dies.

**keeki** · 10-28-2013, 06:44 AM

Paint the shoulder of the brass with a sharpie and run the die down until you can see where the die has made contact with the brass

stangfish · 10-28-2013, 06:49 AM

Yep, that shoulder needs to stay within .004 of the chamber size. Preferably .002.

**Leozinho** · 10-28-2013, 10:00 AM

I think I'm tracking with the sharpie method.

Should I adjust the die down very gradually until its just makes contact, as verified by marks on the ink? And stop once I see marks, or turn the die another fraction of a rotation after I first see marks?

Thanks.

**CharlieNC** · 10-28-2013, 10:49 AM

You should get a comparator for your caliper to measure headspace to set your die, and to set bullet seating depth. Hornady makes one and it is an essential tool to load safely and accurately.

82boy · 10-28-2013, 11:31 AM

Originally Posted by CharlieNC

You should get a comparator for your caliper to measure headspace to set your die, and to set bullet seating depth. Hornady makes one and it is an essential tool to load safely and accurately.

Out of all the answers given this is the correct one.

Wilson also makes a case gauge, a case gauge doesn't have to be fancy, all it has to do is fit the shoulder diameter of the case. Attempting to set up a FL die, without a way of measuring the shoulder bump back is a waste of time.