Reply With QuoteDid you buy the rifle new? Can you cycle the bolt without ammunition? Can you check the function of the extractor(Put the bolt in a plastic bag and slide the extractor off then reassemble it taking care not to launch the spring and detent ball).
Yesterday i purchased two boxes of federal premium 308win 175gr sierra matchking hpbt gold metal match bullets. The first one i handloaded to ghost load and check if it cycles correctly. My bolt stopped a little before being fully seated causing it to lock. I then was able to free the bolt and upon doing so it ejected the hand fed round and all of the powder. The bullet did not extract but was stuck in the bore, so i pushed it out with a rod. I do not typically check OAL of factory ammo but im assuming it was too long, it did not appear crooked as it fed into the chamber and i dont remember if it slid all the way in easily by hand. I do remember it wasnt hard to feed it in, but i dont shove my rounds in i kinda let them glide and then throw the bolt in behind.
I will be attaching pictures of the boxes of ammo the top numbered box is the one where the bullet unseated from the case. All the rest that i loaded after all fed and extracted fine after. Not sure why it happened but im guessing its either just this box and just that bullet or a lot issue. These were purchased at academy in baytown, tx.
However, today i finally decided to shoot the rest of the box and got several more that unseated before i had to stop because the front action screw had loosened up. I will say my rifle loves this ammo as far as accuracy goes, but im not sure whether the ammo is bad or my rifle is messed up. At a certain point on each of the bullets that unseated i could feel a bind and tension so i would try to pull the bolt back and thats when it would unseat the case and bullet.
Did you buy the rifle new? Can you cycle the bolt without ammunition? Can you check the function of the extractor(Put the bolt in a plastic bag and slide the extractor off then reassemble it taking care not to launch the spring and detent ball).
The rifle is new with the only rounds being between me and the manufacturer. The bolt cycles just fine without ammo when all the gunpowder is cleaned from the chamber from the unseated bullets. I am still shooting andnoticed the feedlips of my magazinewasnt holding the last round in the same plane as the rest. I think it was maybe a compounded issue. I will check the extractor as well to be sure.
Whats weird is my accuracy was tiiiiightt about .50-75 at 100 when my action loosened up. Now that its tight again its opened up to 2-4 inches at 100. Im gonna buy a torque wrench and mess with it. I really hope i dont have to send it off but i might try my hand at bedding it. My question would be when i do bed it would the torque settings be the same?
My FCP-SR has a really short throat.
The FGMM 175's I have are 2.800 COAL.
When the same SMK 175 is measured to my lands in a dummy case,
The COAL is measured @ 2.795, so the FGMM is jammed .005 on my rifle.
Maybe yours is even shorter, and it's jamming into the lands enough to grab the bullet
upon ejection.
Just a guess...
No idea on the magazine issue, like you said, could be a separate and unrelated problem.
It seems to have been only related to that one box. The second box fired just fine. But im still unsure so i will be doing one thing at a time now to troubleshoot.
I must not have paid enough of attention to your original post. If you pull the action out of the stock you can see if the rear screw is tightened before the front screw it can have the effect of pulling the rear of the action downward and lifting the front up. The front can be pulled down but the results are negative. I have no way of knowing if this is what happened but following RCA that would be my first inclination.
Lets go back and look at your tightening sequence. Back the front action screw out. Does the action tilt upward in the front slightly? Loosen the rear screw. Does the action lay back down or move? Lets tighten things back up in this sequence. Get both screws started. Stand the gun up on the but. Using your Allen key turn the forward action screw in until it stops. Back of a half turn plus or minus. Now screw the rear action screw in until it stops and back off like with the forward screw. Now lightly snug the front screw, then the rear. Now torque the front, then the rear. Retest action function including trigger bump test. Now test fire. Let us know the results. Do you shoot in Crosby?
Yes i do shoot in crosby.... I dont think i had my location setup on this site yet? I will try what you suggested but should i wait till i pick a torque wrench up?
Not needed just get them snug/gudentite for the test.
+1!Originally Posted by Steve Williams
I hope that isnt the case as i was liking how these 175s were shooting. I wanted to try 178s next. If that is the case then the only thing to solve that would be to custom load 175s and 178s shorter on oal and lighter on powder to be able to make up for the shorter throat, correct? I only shoot factory ammo so that would be a big down fall.
Just to reiterate though. It wasnt happening on every round so if the throat was in fact even shorter to cause a seperation in bullet and case then all of them would extract the same. Thats what leads me to believe either the action and/or mag was the issue or the bullets out of spec. i just picked up a torque wrench for in lbs and will be adjusting the action screws as suggested above sometime today when i get a good chance. Also stangfish, when the action loosened up it seemed to be evenly loose and only raised up when i pressed down in the tang.
I was looking more for a hinging type of movement in case you tightened the rear screw first. It may not be an issue as I may have read something into your post.
No sir, only the front action screw came loose during shooting. The rear stayed tight or seemingly tight. It was surprising how much stock flex or what appeared to be stock flex happened while just the front action screw was loose. The action also had considerable side to side and up and down travel.
Rear action screw is stripped out from the stock. I had not touched this screw at all except just now with a torque wrench set at 20in lbs which according to a site linked from here on torque sequence i wasnt even near maxing out. Not only that but it never even hit 20in lbs. Looks like i am screwed. Below is a picture of the screw. Some say this is just to hold the trigger guard in and doesnt matter others say its an action screw. So confused! Can i just epoxy this thing or what.
Last edited by shooterfpga; 10-25-2013 at 02:13 PM.
That screw ONLY holds the trigger guard on. The rear action screw is under the bolt release "knob" (located between the magazine well and the trigger guard) The trigger guard screw is a course thread "wood" type screw meant to hold in/down the trigger guard and cannot take much torque (as you found out) Just dab a little "runny" epoxy into the hole, drill it out to match the screws OD (at the base of the threads) and run the screw back in with a light hand tight torque. And you will be fine.
Snipe
Ahhhhhahhhh! Thank you sir. That is a weird location and awkward to say the least looks like i will be finally taking this thing apart all the way to fix that trigger guard screw. Does anyone have step by step pictures of how to bed this new style savage 10 bottom bolt... Ive looked at the tutorials and its so confusing to me. I guess when i finally take it out itll make sense hopefully? I am sorry for all these questions but hopefully my issues helps someone else out as well.
This is a savage and not a Remington. The rear screw on a Remington is an action screw. When you bed a Remington or a Savage you bed at the rear and front action screw. Thus you would bed the tang on a Remington and not a savage. Just do it. There is no one here that can do it for you. If you mess up get the Dremel out and try again.
If it is an Accustock it doesn't "need" bedding IMHO. Just a good, consistent torque (I have mine at 40 in lbs as that has proven the best for MY action/stock combo) You prolly can bed it, but if it were me, Id go with a different stock (like a Manners) and bed it before I would try to improve the Accustock.
Snipe
I don't think that is an accustock. regardless the only thing a non accustock synthetic could benefit from would be pillars anyway.
This is not an accustock. Finally able to torque it in proper sequence and noticed after about 20-25in on the rear action and front it starts slipping. Im using a 5/32 sae hex bit socket. . Even increasing to 40in lbs doesnt make em move. Would a torx 27 work or am i missing something here.
So your hex bit spins in the screws? i.e. the screws are striped out? Then, at this point, you would need to get something in them that will bite, or you will have to drill them out (using a very small numbered bit that will leave most of the screw intact) and use an easy out to remove the screws. At that point, the job might be best done by a machinist or a smith.
Good luck.
Snipe
Looks like ima have to drill them out. Would nickel screws be better to replace them or was i just an idiot these steel ones are normally fine.
The standard steel is just fine I did replace mine with socket cap screws over the button head cap screws due to some more tool engagement and the ability to buy torx ones. I did have to grind the one down under the bolt release for it to clear the bolt release though. I got my replacement torx ones at an ace hardware and they were the grade 8 equivalent that I am blanking on at the moment.
Sometimes if the allen is stripped a torx bit can be tapped in and get it broken loose.
Thanks for the advice. I prefer torx screws as they grip better and seem harder to strip. Any recollection of thread pitch and size? I was at the hardware store earlier looking at socket cap ones as well. Ill try using a torx to break it free before i drill em out.
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